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France : Marseille - September 2010
Country Code: Dial for FranceMarseille’s cooling mistral wind is put to good use this month during the annual Festival of the Wind, when the skyline of Prado Beach is adorned with colourful kites fl own by teams from all over Europe. Molly Simpson is our September city guide
Getting around
Marseille-Provence
Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).
VIEUX PORT
Marseille’s ancient port is the hub of the city; see it in style by grabbing a seat at one of the restaurants or bar terraces surrounding the harbour.
Sleep soundly – It’s worth paying for a ‘Provençal’ room at the Résidence du Vieux Port (18 Quai du Port, tel. , hotelmarseille.com/residence, rooms from €120). With a balcony and huge plate-glass windows framing the statue of Notre Dame de la Garde on the hill opposite, this is one of the best views in town.
Culture vultures – Pick up a Carte Privilèges from the tourist office (€15 for a oneday pass, see info box for address) which covers entry to various museums. The Musée de la Marine is in the imposing Palais de la Bourse (9 Canebière), while the Galerie of Marseille (8 Rue du Chevalier Roze) boasts contemporary works by local and international artists.
Must eat – Splash out on bouillabaisse at Le Miramar (12 Quai du Port, tel. ). Though pricey, this local speciality is well worth the temporary dent in your bank balance. Sandwiches and other light lunchtime options can be enjoyed at the salon de thé of Les Arcenaulx (25 Cours d’Estienne d’Orves, tel. ), while gastronomes flock to the restaurant in these converted warehouses for regal dishes such as pigeon with caramelised quince and local classics like barigoule (spiced artichokes drenched in olive oil).
LE PANIER AND LA VIEILLE CHARITÉ
Marseille’s old quarter retains much of its charm, despite attempts at demolition during the German Occupation. The unprepossessing street at the side of the Hôtel de Ville on the east side of the Vieux Port is full of tiny shops selling pottery and handmade chocolate. Pause at the ochrewashed Place des Moulins before plunging into the maze of little streets toward the Vieille Charité.
Culture vultures – Visit the stunning complex of the Mediterranean Archaeology Museum (2 Rue de la Charité). Offering several art galleries, a café and bookshop, it was home to vagrants and orphans in the 17th century. It now hosts Europe’s largest collection of Egyptian artefacts.
Must eat – La Terrasse du panier (10 Place Pistoles, tel. ) serves traditional no-fuss fodder – try a generous bowl of the house speciality, the minestrone-like soupe au pistou.
Shop til you drop – Chocoholics will adore Xocoatl Chocolaterie Maino (28 Grande Rue), offering treats laced with lemon, olive oil and absinthe. It’s gifts a go-go on the Rue du Petit Puits, with ceramics at La Sardine d’Argile , fragrant fancies at 72% Pétanque (10) and art at Oddo .
LE PLATEAU
Visitors to this bohemian-chic quarter can’t help but become absorbed in the village-like feel. There are many affordable street cafés and restaurants around Cours Julien or nearby Place Jean Jaurès.
Must drink – L’Bar Intermédiaire (63 Place Jean Jaurès) host regular concerts and has a warm and friendly ambience.
Dance the night away – Café Julien (39 Cours Julien) has something for all music lovers, from trance to electro, death metal to salsa!
Shop til you drop – La Plaine market on Saturdays offers everything from local delicacies to floppy sun hats and sun shades. Inexpensive clothes from local designers can be found at Tata Zize (29 Rue Bussy l’Indien), while Oogie (55 Cours Julien) is aptly named a ‘lifestore’ and comprises a hair studio, restaurant, café, bookshop, clothing stores and a gallery.
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Previous issues for Marseille
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| Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, please confirm event/venue details in advance. |
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