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Russia : Moscow - May 2010

Country Code: Dial + for Russia

Few cities have better reason to greet May with open arms than Moscow, which is coming out of its freezing winter. With any luck, it’ll be picnic weather by the time Victory Day (9 May) rolls around. The defeat of Nazi Germany is commemorated in the capital with a military parade on Tverskaya and children’s celebrations at Victory Park. Sonya Rinkus mixes it up and shows you where to get patriotic, eat grilled meat and dance on the bar

Getting around

Domodedovo International Airport

Bus: Coaches from Domodedovo station leave every 15 minutes and take 35 minutes to reach the city centre. Tickets cost €1,15/RUB 40.
Train: Trains leave from Domededovo to Paveletskaya train station every 40 minutes, with the journey taking 40 minutes. Tickets cost €5/RUB 180.
Taxi: A journey to the city centre should cost about €43/RUB 1600. The trip takes around an hour.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 4 Ulitsa Ilyinka (tel. , www.moscow-city.ru).

TVERSKAYA

Moscow’s main artery was the road to battle in World War II. Now a posh shopping street, Tverskaya pays tribute to its historical legacy on Victory Day with a patriotic parade.

Culture vultures – It’s a sight to behold: Tverskaya closed to traffic and tanks rolling down the street. Get there early for a prime spot for Victory Day parade.

Must drink – Noor Bar (23/12 Tverskaya Ulitsa) is a rare Moscow bar than focuses on drinks rather than on excluding people. As a result, a laid-back crowd gathers here after work.

Shop til you drop – Head to the back of the gorgeous, turn-of-the-century Yeliseyevsky Gastronom (14 Tverskaya Ulitsa) for a selection of traditional craft souvenirs, including wooden bowls and nesting dolls.

KROPOTKINSKAYA

Demolished in Soviet times, the massive restored Cathedral of Christ the Saviour is the central landmark of this old district, which has long been known for its prestigious real estate.

Sleep soundly – Kebur Palace (32 Ostozhenka Ulitsa, , keburpalace.ru, rooms from €125/ RUB 4,900) is just small enough to be intimate, and tourists will appreciate the proximity to Red Square and the Kremlin.

Culture vultures – The country’s largest Picasso exhibition in 50 years, highlighting Russia’s influence on the artist, is on show at the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts (12 Volkhonka Ulitsa) until 23 May.

Must eat – Restaurateur Stepan Mikhalkov honours the memory of his grandfather, legendary cabaret artist Alexander Vertinsky, with the elegant Vertinsky (3/14 Ostozhenka Ulitsa, ).

Dance the night away – Three words: glitter, fire, techno. Rai (9 Bolotnaya Naberezhnaya) is unmatched in terms of over-the-top excess, granting access to only the richest and most beautiful of nightlife creatures.

KUZNETSKY MOST

Inhabited by the French during Peter the Great’s time, Kuznetsky Most maintains its reputation of luxury in the form of haute couture boutiques and high-class dining options.

Sleep soundly – Like most hotels in Kuznetsky Most, the Armenia-themed Ararat Park Hyatt (4 Neglinnaya Ulitsa, 4, moscow.park.hyatt.com, rooms from €440/RUB 17,300 per night) takes luxury very seriously.

Must eat – The rich cuisine of a little heralded former Soviet state is on offer at Moldova (7 Rozhdestvenka Ulitsa, ) – try the signature mamaliga (cornmeal bread) and some homemade wine.

Must drink – A refreshing change from the standard elitny club fare, Coyote Ugly (6/3 Kuznetsky Most) is a fairly faithful recreation of the American saloon chain, complete with amateurs dancing on the bar.

Dance the night away – Karma Bar (3 Pushechnaya Ulitsa) is a Moscow nightlife institution, having maintained a reputation as one of the city’s wildest clubs for the better part of a decade.

KURSKAYA

For the young and hip, there’s no better place to be than by Kurskaya train station, which has a high concentration of art galleries, fashion designer workshops and underground clubs.

Culture vultures – Put on a black turtleneck and head down to 35mm (47/24 Pokrovka Ulitsa), Moscow’s leading art-house movie theatre, which screens its last weekend flicks around midnight.

Dance the night away – Once the city’s most exclusive underground club, Gazgolder (5/1 Nizhny Susalny Pereulok) has opened up to the public a bit but retains an intimate, apartment-party feel.

Shop til you drop – Moscow fashionistas covet nearly everything that’s on offer at Cara & Co (4th Syromyatnichesky Pereulok), an Australian-run concept store with hip vintage décor.

Compiled by Sonya Rinkus