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France : Nice - July 2010

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Nice in July sees violet aubergines, Provençal olive oils and pyramids of cherries piled high in the old town’s Cours Saleya market, while restaurants and a craft market take over come the evening. Kathryn Tomasetti reports, but also check out our feature on lesser-known Nice, which is celebrating its 150th birthday (see p44)

Getting around

Nice Côte d’Azur Airport is 7km west of the city centre.

Bus: The No.99 departs for Gare Routière, the central bus station just outside the old town, every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €4 and the journey takes about 30 minutes.
Taxi: The journey from the airport to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs around €30.
Tourist information: The main office is at 5 Promenade des Anglais (tel. , nicetourisme.biz).

VIEILLE VILLE

The old town’s narrow alleyways, lined with high Italianate buildings, remain cool throughout the summer afternoons.

Must eat – Pick up a picnic from Rossettisserie (8 Rue Mascoïnat, tel. ) – once the town bakery, today it roasts chicken, lamb and crispy frites. Around the corner at L’Univers (54 Boulevard Jean Jaurès, tel. , christian-plumail.com), chef Christian Plumail’s Michelin-starred menus are light at lunchtime (€20 for two courses) and decadent at dinner.

AVENUE JEAN-MÉDECIN

Running from Nice’s main train station to Place Masséna, Avenue Jean-Médecin is filled with ambling tourists and hip local shoppers.

Sleep soundly – On a tranquil rue, Hôtel Windsor (11 Rue Dalpozzo, tel. , hotelwindsornice.com, rooms from €120) boasts a secluded garden, pool and cool cocktail bar. Contemporary artists such as François Morellet have decked out the unique rooms.

Must drink – The Grand Hôtel Aston’s breezy Aqua Bar (12 Avenue Félix Faure) is perched poolside on the roof, perfect for drinking in the sunset and a chilled glass of rosé. Alternatively, head to the shady pavement tables at Karr (10 Rue Alphonse Karr) for a perroquet – pastis with a dash of mint.

Shop til you drop – Nice’s designer haven is on Avenue de Verdun, Rue Paradis and the streets between them. Try Chacok (4 Rue Alphonse Karr) for beautiful bikinis, Agnès b (5 Rue Longchamp) for men’s shirts and Espace Harroch (7 Rue Paradis) for a blend of brands, including Chloé and Marni.

THE BEACHES

Come summer, the action moves to the seaside 5km Promenade des Anglais. Stretches of public beach, spliced by excellent beach clubs, back the prom’s wide pedestrianised pavements.

Must eat – Enjoy seasonal ingredients and a sublime setting at Blue Beach (Promenade des Anglais, tel. ). Further west, Hi-Beach (47 Promenade des Anglais, tel. ) dishes up organic meals with an international twist.

Must drink – Plage Beau Rivage (107 Quai des Etats-Unis) is Nice’s most elegant beach-club bar.

Dance the night away – The city puts on free Prom Parties (nicetourisme.com) throughout July, with stages stretching from the Hôtel Negresco to the Théâtre de Verdure featuring pop, jazz and DJs.

EAST OF NICE

Hop aboard a bus from Gare Routière for a peek at the Riviera’s prettiest villages, beaches and coastal roads.

Sleep soundly – Set on the stunning bay of Villefranche, Villa Vauban (11 Avenue General de Gaulle, tel. , hotelvillavauban.com, rooms from €125) boasts a sunken garden and Provençal décor to create an idyllic hideaway.

Culture vultures – Take a peek at the Riviera’s starry sky at planetarium Eze Astrorama (Route de la Revère, Eze, astrorama.net). The Monaco Open-air Cinema (Parking du Chemin Des Pêcheurs, cinemasporting.com) shows original language films, or if you prefer your culture to be as sun-kissed as possible, stake out a patch alongside the turquoise waters of Paloma Plage (just south of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat).

Compiled by Kathryn Tomasetti