Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Insider: Copenhagen

Copenhagen
Denmark

Text Gwladys Fouche
Image Corbis
Map illustration Jason Pickersgill/Acute Graphics

Copenhagen is perhaps the most beautiful city in the Nordic countries. The architecture of the Danish capital is highly varied – an appealing combination of gorgeous 19th-century buildings, Dutch-style town houses and stunning contemporary projects.

It’s a human-sized city, too. Bicycles, rather than cars, dominate the streets, the airport is only a 10 to 15-minute tube ride away from the centre, and you can smell the fresh air from the sea instead of pollution. It’s also a mecca for design-lovers, offering endless opportunities to enjoy the best of Scandinavian design. No wonder design guru Sir Terence Conran calls it ‘the Barcelona of the north’.

CITY CENTRE

The heart of Copenhagen is the neon-lit – but still appealing – Rådhuspladsen, a large square flanked by the burgundy town hall on one side and the charmingly quaint Tivoli Gardens (www.tivoli.dk) on another. Danes are in love with this 164-year-old attraction park and visit it in droves at weekends.

From Tivoli’s main entrance you’ll spot the towering Radisson SAS Royal Hotel (1 Hammerichsgade, tel. , www.radissonsas.com), created in 1960 by Arne Jacobsen, one of Denmark’s most famous designers. The ground-floor lounge and café have retained their modernist, austere look, although all the rooms above have been restyled, with the exception of the exclusive room 606. The acclaimed restaurant on the top floor, Alberto K (www.alberto-k.com), is one of the city’s top upmarket destinations and offers some of the best panoramic views of the city.

Back on the ground, design-lovers should make a beeline for the gorgeous Dansk Design Center (27 HC Andersen Boulevard, www.ddc.dk). The main exhibition, which runs until 30 March, offers an international look at Danish design by Milan-based firm King & Miranda.

Head north to get lost in the streets surrounding Strøget, Copenhagen’s main shopping avenue. Many of these are pedestrianised and/or cobbled and are a joy to walk around. All are lined with beautiful 19th-century buildings and dotted with small independent boutiques, cafés and bars where you can warm yourself up with a coffee or a fresh Carlsberg. Kongens Nytorv is the crown jewel of Copenhagen’s squares, dominated by Hotel d’Angleterre (34 Kongens Nytorv, tel. , www.dangleterre.dk). If you feel like blowing your mortgage, this is the way to do it in style – it doesn’t get much more luxurious than this 250-year-old five-star hotel.

Just off Kongens Nytorv is the delightful Nyhavn, a 17th-century canal lined with cafés and terraces that are packed the moment there’s a ray of sunshine. From there you can hop on a canal boat for a leisurely tour. Walking north along the main canal you’ll approach the stately area of Frederiksstaden. This is the location of the Amalienborg Slot palace, the winter home of the Danish royal family. Continue north to find the symbol of Copenhagen – the tiny, and some might say underwhelming, Den Lille Havfrue (Little Mermaid).

CHRISTIANSHAVN

On the opposite side of Nyhavn you’ll find one of the most charming areas in Copenhagen, Christianshavn. Nicknamed ‘Little Amsterdam’, this area was modelled on the Dutch city and is criss-crossed with canals and Dutch-style town houses. To eat like a Dane, head for Restaurant Kanalen (2 Wilders Plads, tel. , www.restaurant-kanalen.dk), which serves both traditional dishes like marinated herring, and more contemporary fare such as fish cakes in mild curry sauce.

To the north-east of Christianshavn stands the ‘free state’ of Christiania, a hippie enclave founded in 1971 in the deserted buildings of a military base; it’s still partially self-governed. Soft-drug dealers used to work on Pusher Street, but now it’s packed with veggie restaurants and cooperative shops. Resist the temptation to take photos – the residents don’t like it.

Further east is Islands Brygge harbour, which is popular with locals in summer. Here you can bathe in the super-clean waters, have a picnic or just enjoy the waterside view. From Christianshavn’s southern waterfront you can admire the Black Diamond, the stunning extension to the Royal Library, which opened in 1999. To the north, in Holmen, stands Henning Larsen’s beautiful Operaen (www.operaen.dk), or Opera House, completed in 2005.

VESTERBRO

This area used to be Copenhagen’s red-light district and, although it is now packed with trendy bars, fun shops and exotic restaurants, some parts have retained their sleazy character. Down a pint at Ricco’s Kaffebar (119 Istedgade) or Bang & Jensen (130 Istedgade, www.bangogjensen.dk). Vela (2-4 Viktoriagade, www.velagayclub.dk) is a Victorian-style pub popular with gay women, and you can dance the night away at Vega (40 Enghavevej, www.vega.dk) or become a lounge lizard at Vega’s drinking venue, Ideal Bar.

Buy discounted jeans at the popular factory outlet Autometer (47 Gammel Kongevej, www.autometer.dk), and designer furniture and alternative T-shirts at Ichinen (59 Istedgade). Montre (19 Halmtorvet) is also worth a look – several clothes designers display their creations in this former warehouse.

Since you’re in the land of Carlsberg, it would be rude not to see how the amber liquid is brewed by popping into the Carlsberg Visitors Centre (11 Gamle Carlsberg Vej, www.visitcarlsberg.com), in the western part of Vesterbro.

ØSTERBRO AND NØRREBRO

The well-heeled of Copenhagen reside in Østerbro. This elegant district is full of beautiful late 19th-century architecture, and also boasts the biggest park in the city, Fælledparken. Enjoy a leisurely walk along its lake to the south or kick a football around in the park. Children will enjoy the Zoologisk Museum (15 Universitetsparken, www.zmuc.ku.dk). Fans of Scandinavian design should shop at Normann Copenhagen (70 Østerbrogade, www.normann-copenhagen.com), while shoe fetishists will be in heaven at Lola Pagola (4 Classensgade).

Neighbouring Nørrebro is poorer and more ethnically mixed than Østerbro, but is vibrant and up-and-coming. The action centres on Sankt Hans Torv, a square that’s home to hip café-bars Pussy Galore’s Flying Circus (30 Sankt Hans Torv, www.pussy-galore.dk) and Sebastopol Café Brasserie (32 Sankt Hans Torv, www.sebastopol.dk).

Shopping-wise, look out for antiques and second-hand shops trading old clothes, glassware, furniture and more, on Ravnsborggade. If your interests are more cultural, great Danes from the past are buried at Assistens Kirkegaard (2 Kapelvej). Founded in 1757, it’s the largest cemetery in the city and, ironically, a surprisingly lively spot. Fairytale novelist Hans Christian Andersen.

FR Gros plan sur Copenhague

Copenhague est sans doute la plus belle ville des pays nordiques. Dans la capitale, l’ architecture danoise est extrêmement variée, avec un mélange de bâtiments du 19e siècle, des hôtels de maître de style hollandais et des projets contemporains. C’est aussi une ville à dimension humaine. Les vélos, plus que les voitures, dominent les rues et l’aéroport se trouve à seulement 10 à 15 minutes de métro du centre.

Éclairé au néon, Rådhuspladsen, le cœur de Copenhague abrite les Jardins Tivoli (www.tivoli.dk). Depuis l’entrée principale de Tivoli, vous tomberez sur le Radisson SAS Royal Hotel (1 Hammerichsgade), créé par Arne Jacobsen. Le restaurant au dernier étage, Alberto K, est l’un des meilleurs de la ville.

Kongens Nytorv est le joyau des places de Copenhague, dominé par l’hôtel d’Angleterre. Nyhavn, sortant de Kongens Nytorv, est un canal du 17 e siècle bordé de cafés et de terrasses. Sur l’une des rives de Nyhavn se trouve Christianshavn, ou ‘Little Amsterdam’. Allez au Restaurant Kanalen (2 Wilders Plads), qui sert des plats danois traditionnels et contemporains. Au nord-est de Christianshavn, Christiania, est une enclave hippie fondée en 1971.

Vesterbro était autrefois le quartier ‘chaud’ de Copenhague, mais aujourd’hui il regorge de bars trendys, de magasins amusants et de restaurants exotiques. Savourez une pinte de bière au Ricco’s Kaffebar (119 Istedgade) et dansez toute la nuit à Vega (40 Enghavevej). Découvrez comment la Carlsberg est brassée au Centre des Visiteurs Carlsberg (11 Gamle Carlsberg Vej).

Le quartier calme et élégant d’Østerbro est rehaussé d’une magnifique architecture 19e siècle et du plus grand parc de la ville, Fælledparken. Nørrebro est un quartier plus modeste et plus mélangé ethniquement. L’action se concentre à Sankt Hans Torv, lieu des café-bars Pussy Galore’s Flying Circus (30 Sankt Hans Torv) et Sebastopol Café Brasserie (32 Sankt Hans Torv).

Les grands Danois du passé sont enterrés à Assistens Kirkegaard (2 Kapelvej), et l’on compte parmi eux le grand romancier de contes Hans Christian Andersen, le philosophe Søren Kierkegaard et le physicien Niels Bohr.

NL Kopenhagen binnenstebuiten

Kopenhagen is wellicht de mooiste stad van Scandinavië. De Deense hoofdstad heeft een heel gevarieerde architectuur: 19de-eeuwse gebouwen wisselen af met Hollands aandoende burgerhuizen en hedendaagse projecten. Het is ook een stad op mensenmaat. Fietsen domineren het straatbeeld en de metro brengt je in een kwartiertje van de luchthaven naar het centrum.

Centraal in Kopenhagen ligt de Rådhuspladsen, met de Tivoli-tuinen (www.tivoli.dk). Van de hoofdingang van Tivoli kan je het Radisson SAS Royal Hotel (1 Hammerichsgade) van architect Arne Jacobsen bewonderen. Op de hoogste verdieping is er Alberto K, zowat het beste restaurant van de stad.

Kongens Nytorv is het mooiste van alle Kopenhaagse pleinen, gedomineerd door het Hotel d’Angleterre. Weg van Kongens Nytorv loopt het 17de-eeuwse kanaal Nyhavn, met aan weerszijden cafés en terrasjes. Aan de ene kant van Nyhavn vind je Christianshavn, of ‘Klein Amsterdam’. Ga naar restaurant Kanalen (2 Wilders Plads) voor traditionele en hedendaagse Deense gerechten. Ten noordoosten van Christianshavn ligt Christiania, een hippiegemeenschap gesticht in 1971.

Vesterbro, de voormalige rosse buurt van Kopenhagen, is nu een wijk met trendy bars, leuke winkeltjes en exotische restaurants. Drink een glas in Ricco’s Kaffebar (119 Istedgade) en dans tot de dageraad in Vega (40 Enghavevej). Ontdek hoe Carlsberg wordt gebrouwen in het bezoekerscentrum van Carlsberg (11 Gamle Carlsberg Vej).

In de rustige wijk Østerbro vind je heel wat eind-19de-eeuwse architectuur en het grootste park van de stad, Fælledparken. De wijk Nørrebro is armer en multicultureler. Voor actie trek je naar Sankt Hans Torv, met de hippe cafés Pussy Galore’s Flying Circus (30 Sankt Hans Torv) en Sebastopol Café Brasserie (32 Sankt Hans Torv).

De grote Denen uit het verleden hebben hun laatste rustplaats in Assistens Kirkegaard (2 Kapelvej). Je vindt er onder meer schrijver Hans Christian Andersen, filosoof Søren Kierkegaard en fysicus Niels Bohr.

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