Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Changing places

The triangle between Gran Vía and Corredera Baja de San Pablo was once one of Madrid’s seamiest barrios. Now a new initiative has made it the city’s most fashion-forward district. Scott Adams reports

Artists need room to grow, but when you’re starting out in the big city, space can be an excessively expensive luxury. For a lucky few, help comes in the form of an ‘angel’, a cash rich benefactor in the mould of Robert De Niro, who ploughed millions into TriBeCa, transforming it into New York’s chicest district.

In Madrid, a similarly public-spirited pair of angels have spearheaded a serious gentrification project, reviving the fortunes of a forgotten urban backwater. The multi-million euro initiative of entrepreneurs Eduardo Moreno Menéndez and Miguel Ángel Santa Ibáñez has turned the former red-light area, just off the metropolis’s bustling Gran Vía, into a creative hub that has the city’s movers and shakers clamouring to move in.

As Moreno, now president of the triBall Merchants’ Association, explains: “It wasn’t long ago that this tangle of small streets was pretty much off limits and a no-go for anyone who wasn’t looking for female company or hard drugs.”

But, thanks to their vision, this neglected quarter is now a highly desirable neighbourhood, with great shopping and a vibrant arts scene. The project started in 2006, when the pair bought up about 30 brothels in the area, as well as other small shops and abandoned buildings. Once they had the title deeds to the prime locations, they could get to work.

With their working premises and clients gone, most of the ladies of the night also vacated the area. Moreno and Ibañez then started encouraging young designers and artists to use the available space as studios and outlets for their work.

“We realised that it’s hard to get a start in the big city,” explains Moreno, “so we set our rents well within the reach of most young entrepreneurs.” Anyone moving into one of the shops can expect to pay about one tenth of what could normally be charged. Hardly surprising that there’s now a long waiting list of hopefuls wanting to get involved.

One success story is the fashion boutique La Lanterne Rouge (the Red Lantern), which was once one of the area’s largest brothels. The plush, red-velvet wall coverings and the original bar give a nod to its former incarnation, but inside you’ll find flapper-style hats and glamorous silk dresses with original appliqué by up-and-coming Spanish designers like Laura Rodriguez.

“Making shopping an holistic experience is essential,” explains Rafael Hierro, who runs the shop. “So we’ve created a cosy, Shanghai-inspired café at the back which is perfect for relaxing.”

Each of the 12 rooms above the shop has now been given over to a young artist to create a multimedia installation in. “The effects are stunning,” remarks Rafael de Aza, who heads up the project. “Each space was the same dimension, but the results have been so varied.” The installations have been so successful, attracting a constant flow of visitors, that more art projects are now planned.

Another big draw is Carlos Díez Díez’s studio, La Casa De La Carne. It’s set in a former butcher’s shop and the original features are still very much in evidence, with silk dresses hanging inside the old fridges. One of Spain’s most famous fashion designers and a long term resident of the area, Díez is a big advocate of the project. “I’m thrilled about this ongoing adventure. It’s exactly what the neighbourhood needs, a new spirit that can coexist with the traditional.”

In fact, one of the greatest joys of walking around triBall is hearing the residents’ stories. Beatriz Gomez, who was born in a fourth-floor flat here some 50 years ago, watched as the district became crowded with pushers and pimps. Today it’s all very different.

“I’ve never felt so at peace in my own street,” she remarks with a smile. “I love spending time with my new neighbours and my wardrobe has had an injection of fresh design thanks to them. “

Her new neighbours are similarly enthusiastic. “I never imagined I’d be designing and running my own shop in the city centre,” says Ester Martín of La Quinta del Sol. “I feel as if all my dreams have come true.”

triBall: a shopper’s guide

*La Lanterne Rouge (4 Calle Ballesta) Sells cool, creative fashions by young Spanish designers like Laura Rodriguez, chunky jewellery, ‘60s-inspired silk dresses, shirts in bright colours.

*La Maison de La Lanterne Rouge (1st floor, 4 Calle Ballesta, lamaison.es) Upstairs from the boutique, this alternative gallery space stages regularly changing exhibitions as well as poetry readings and small concerts.

*Picnic (8 Calle Ballesta, picnicballesta.es) Good for Spanish urban style: designer T-shirts, colourful handbags, sophisticated menswear.

*La Quinta Del Sol (4 Calle Loreto y Chicote, laquintadelsol.es) Pick up creative T-shirts decorated with printed or appliquéd motifs.

*Barriga Llena (8 Calle Libertad, tel. ) A buzzy, informal restaurant serving up cold Coronas and Mexican morsels in psychedelic surroundings.

*Emiika Style (53 Corredera Baja de San Pablo) Alpaca hand knits, little bolero jackets and hand-crafted jewellery upstairs. Painting and photography exhibitions held in the basement gallery.

*Consuela (9 Calle de la Puebla)
Stocks designer trainers that come in every colour combination (hot pink and lime, anyone?) and every permutation (platform soles, knee-high lace-ups).

*Hotel Siete Islas (14 Calle Valverde, tel. , hotelsieteislas.com)
A modern hotel perfectly positioned for bar hopping and shopping. The rooftop suites offer great city views from their open garden terraces.

*La Casa De Peewee (42 Calle del Barco)
Specialises in fashion-forward leather accessories. Come here for wallets, gloves, scarves, satchels and hats.

*La Casa De La Carne (9 Calle Loreto y Chicote)
Set in what was a butcher’s shop, Carlos Díez Díez’s studio now showcases inspired creations. Unique pieces hang in the old cold rooms, set off perfectly by the white-tiled walls.

FR Changement de décor

Le triangle entre la Gran Vía et la Corredera Baja de San Pablo était l’un des quartiers les plus mal famés de Madrid. Aujourd’hui, sous l’impulsion d’une initiative urbaine, il est devenu le district le plus avant-gardiste de la ville, Triball. Un reportage de Scott Adams.

Les entrepreneurs Eduardo Moreno et Miguel Ángel Santa Ibáñez ont contribué au revirement de fortune de l’ancien quartier rouge de Madrid.

Tout a commencé en 2006, lorsque le duo a acheté près de 30 maisons de passe dans le quartier, ainsi que d’autres petits magasins et bâtiments à l’abandon. Ils ont ensuite encouragé de jeunes stylistes et artistes à utiliser les espaces comme studios et comme magasins. Tous ceux qui emménagent ici peuvent s’attendre à payer environ un dixième du prix des loyers habituels. Il existe à l’heure actuelle une longue liste d’attente, de gens qui espèrent faire partie du projet.

“Je n’avais jamais imaginé que je travaillerais comme styliste et que j’installerais ma propre entreprise dans centre de Madrid” confie Ester Martín, de La Quinta del Sol. “J’ai l’impression que tous mes rêves sont devenus réalité.”

Triball: Guide du shopping La Lanterne Rouge 4 Calle Ballesta Bijoux clinquants, robes en soie d’inspiration 60, chemises colorées.

La Maison 1er étage 4 Calle Ballesta, lamaison.es Monte des expositions, lectures de poésie et concerts.

Picnic 8 Calle Ballesta, picnicballesta.es T-shirts de designers, sacs multicolores, prêt-à-porter sophistiqué pour homme.

La Quinta Del Sol 4 Calle Loreto y Chicote, laquintadelsol.es T-shirts imprimés ou avec motifs appliqués.

Barriga Llena 8 Calle Liberdad, tél.  Un restaurant bondé, informel.

Emiika Style 53 Corredera Baja de San Pablo Articles tricotés main en Alpaga, vestes boléro et bijoux artisanaux.

Consuela 9 Calle de la Puebla Chaussures de sport design.

Hotel Siete Islas 14 Calle Valverde, tel. , hotelsieteislas.com Un hôtel moderne avec de superbes vues.

La Casa De Peewee 42 Calle del Barco Portefeuilles en cuir, gants, écharpes, sacs et chapeaux.

La Casa De La Carne 9 Calle Loreto y Chicote Pièces uniques de Carlos Díez Díez. www.triballmadrid.com

NL Een wereld van verschil

De driehoek die wordt gevormd door Gran Vía en Corredera Baja de San Pablo was een van de minder mooie barrios van Madrid. Maar een origineel initiatief later is het omgetoverd tot het meest modieuze district van de stad: Triball. Scott Adams gaat op verkenning.

Ondernemers Eduardo Moreno en Miguel Ángel Santa Ibáñez hebben de voormalige rosse buurt van Madrid nieuw leven in geblazen.

Het project startte in 2006 toen het duo een dertigtal bordelen en een aantal kleine winkels en verlaten gebouwen in de buurt opkocht. Ze stapten op enkele jonge ontwerpers en artiesten af en moedigden hen aan de ruimtes te gebruiken als atelier en winkel. Iedereen die er intrekt, betaalt ongeveer een tiende van de normale prijs. Intussen is er al een lange wachtlijst van geïnteresseerden die staan te popelen om te verhuizen.

“Ik had nooit gedacht dat ik pal in het centrum van Madrid zou ontwerpen en mijn eigen zaak zou runnen”, zegt Ester Martín van La Quinta del Sol. “Het lijkt wel een droom die werkelijkheid geworden is”.

Triball – shoppingtips

La Lanterne Rouge 4 Calle Ballesta Geknutselde juwelen, zijden jaren ’60er jurken, bonte hemden.

La Maison 1e verdieping, 4 Calle Ballesta, lamaison.es Toneelvoorstellingen, poëzielezingen en optredens.

Picnic 8 Calle Ballesta, picnicballesta.es Designer T-shirts, kleurrijke handtassen, stijlvolle mannenkledij.

La Quinta Del Sol 4 Calle Loreto y Chicote, laquintadelsol.es T-shirts met prints en appliqué.

Barriga Llena 8 Calle Liberdad, tel.  Een bruisend, huiselijk restaurant.

Emiika Style 53 Corredera Baja de San Pablo Handgemaakt breiwerk in alpacawol, bolero jassen en handgemaakte juwelen.

Consuela 9 Calle de la Puebla Designer sportschoenen.

Hotel Siete Islas 14 Calle Valverde, tel. , hotelsieteislas.com Een modern hotel met een fantastisch uitzicht.

La Casa De Peewee 42 Calle del Barco Lederen portefeuilles, handschoenen, sjaals, (schouder) tassen en hoeden.

La Casa De La Carne 9 Calle Loreto y Chicote De unieke ontwerpen van Carlos Díez Díez. www.triballmadrid.com

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