Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Sun, sea and souks

Photography Helen Cathcart

With its broad boulevards and laid-back café culture, the modern resort of Agadir can seem far from what visitors to Morocco would expect to find. Nestled at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, the city is sometimes slighted as lacking the old-world charm of Marrakech or Fes. But, snobs take note – Agadir has an appeal of its own precisely because it is a contemporary and dynamic town. Without relying solely on tourism to provide jobs, the atmosphere in Agadir is truly relaxed and welcoming, and there remains plenty of traditional Moroccan culture to discover – if you can drag yourself away from the wonderful beach.

As is natural for a city perched on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, the locals are fiercely proud of their ties to the sea. While the high-end hotels for which Agadir is renowned offer all the entertainment one would expect, some of my happiest memories of Morocco come from spending evenings in local cafés in the company of fishermen and their friends, hooked on their tall tales. As a working port – one of the world’s largest for sardines – a tremendous bustle can be found throughout the year. The daily auction in the city’s fish market guarantees a display of energy and activity and shouldn’t be missed – like the food itself. Have at least one meal at the numerous seafood stalls dotted in and around the port. Reasonably priced, delicious and as fresh as the salty wind, these places offer some of the best seafood anywhere in North Africa, served in unpretentious and often raucous surroundings. An obvious choice is the grilled sardines, but there’s an excellent selection of other fish, including succulent red mullet, prawns and squid. All can be fried or grilled to order, and prices are fixed to make life easier. Eat quickly, with your fingers, as soon as it’s off the heat.

Agadir’s 10km curve of beach is one of North Africa’s finest, bolstered by a climate that can virtually guarantee near-perfect weather all year round. The average midday temperature in Agadir during the worst of northern Europe’s long winter is a welcoming 21°C. Lounging in the warmth isn’t the only option: you can jet ski, take a camel ride or explore the dunes in a buggy. Alternatively, stretch your legs on Corniche D’Agadir, a beachside boulevard where you can promenade along the Atlantic and get the sand out from between your toes. If you crave more sandy excursions, you should also explore Taghazout, a great surfing beach 15km north of town.

The best views of Agadir’s port and beach are to be had from high above. Away from the beach and marina, Agadir’s Kasbah, or citadel, sits 236m above sea level. The views from here, down to the new town and the bay, are fantastic, especially at sunset as the golden sunlight hits the blues of the Atlantic. Built in 1540 by the Sultan Mohammad Ech-Cheikh, founder of the Saadian Dynasty, to protect the town from Portuguese attacks, the climb to the top is fairly steep but worth the trek. Sadly, much of this 16th-century fort was destroyed in the 1960 earthquake, including its distinctive ramparts. The quake, which lasted just 15 seconds, left 15,000 people dead – a third of the population at the time. When King Muhammad V of Morocco toured the devastation, he declared, “If destiny decided on the destruction of Agadir, its rebuilding depends on our faith and will.” And rebuilt it was, 2km south of the earthquake’s epicentre. With all new buildings being designed and built to withstand any possible future shocks, Agadir is structurally the safest city in Morocco. The Earthquake Museum (Jardin de Olhao, Avenue du President Kennedy) is a moving insight into both what Agadir has been through and the birth of a progressive Moroccan city.

Agadir Museum, which is set in the grounds of the Municipal Theatre Complex (Avenue Hassan II), is another place to soak up some of the culture of the area. It’s a treasure trove of Moroccan antiques, jewellery and crafts, as well as boasting a large display of theatrical art, part of a collection amassed by Dutch historian Bert Flint, resident in the country for over 50 years. Nearby, for more fascinating history, the decade-old Musée du Patrimoine Amazigh (Avenue Hassan II) is home to a collection dedicated to the Berbers, who have lived in the Souss and pre-Saharan regions for centuries. Items include musical instruments, manuscripts and traditional clothing.

When it comes to a bit of retail therapy, Agadir has adapted to cater for the differing tastes of its foreign visitors. For those who enjoy the experience of haggling, there are plenty of traditional leather and ceramic handicrafts vendors. But if you prefer a more predictable shopping experience, there are also a number of price-fixed stores offering a full range of gifts.

For many people, a visit to Morocco would be incomplete without a full souk immersion. For the largest selection of spices and a feast for the senses, head to the edge of town and the ochre-walled Souq al-Had.

One of the largest souks in Morocco, you can spend a whole day exploring its produce and leave an accomplished haggler.

A modern contrast to the souk is the Uniprix. While its concrete exterior isn’t the most charming building in Morocco, architectural considerations are quickly forgotten once you’re inside and browsing. Here you’ll find a decent selection of shops that offer similar goods to the Souq al-Had, as well as more contemporary gifts.

If you have kids in tow and they have endured a lengthy shopping trip, you can always reward them with a visit to La Vallée des Oiseaux (Avenue Hassan II). Just across the street from Uniprix, The Valley of the Birds is a landscaped park that houses a collection of local birds and other animals, as well as more exotic specimens from the Far East. At the centre of the park, there’s a playground to keep children occupied, giving you a chance to sit down and relax.

With its mixture of old and new, a beautiful beach and fascinating Berber culture, Agadir is a city that has defiantly reinvented itself as a unique and accessible Moroccan destination with some considerable style.

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