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As the Slow Food Movement gathers pace, reformed speedaholic Carl Honoré tells Kathryn Tomasetti how to take it easy in Bilbao, Brussels, London and Turin
Time flies. Time is money. In an era of speed and efficiency, it’s shocking to discover that over the past 100 years, while our attentions have been directed elsewhere, more than 300,000 plants have become extinct. Of these, 30,000 were fruits and vegetables. Less than 30 plants currently provide an homogenised 95% of the world’s nutrition. These sad facts, combined with an elevated interest in food and local culinary traditions, have caused the Slow Food Movement (slowfood.com) to rocket in popularity worldwide.
In 1986, just after Italy’s first McDonald’s opened its doors near the Spanish Steps in Rome, Carlo Petrini protested by founding Arcigola. Three years on, this organisation developed into the International Slow Food Movement proper. Simply put, slow food promotes the connection between “the plate and the planet”.
It is a proactive campaign against fast food and a fast life, society’s bizarre belief that living at 100km per hour is the same as living well. Around the world, 80,000 members in over 850 chapters of the Movement organise and manage taste workshops and fairs and approve businesses that promote the principles of Slow Food. In Northern Italy, Slow Food has opened the University of Gastronomic Sciences (unisg.it), promoting ethical careers within the world of food.
Exposure to the concept of ‘slowness’ has resulted in an individual reexamination of daily life. Are we enjoying what we do? Are we participating out of habit or have we made a conscious choice? Do we savour every moment? From food to travel to cities to art, many of us are choosing to slow down.
As the Slow Movement spreads around the globe, where can the novice begin to explore these ideas? Carl Honoré, author of In Praise of Slowness and reformed speedaholic, offers his personal pick of cities and activities to get into the slow spirit.
Where? Bilbao, Spain
Why? Visit the first edition of Algusto, Salón Gastronómico y de la Alimentación (Bilbao Exhibition Centre, 29 November– 2 December, bilbaoexhibitioncentre.com or algusto.eu), based on the biennial Slow Food Producers’ Fair at the Salone del Gusto in Turin. Algusto’s tag line is “Food for thought”, and what better place to sink your teeth into both of these concepts? Including producers from all over the Iberian peninsula as well as the UK and Latin America, participants specialise in one of 19 culinary sectors, ranging from canned goods to ice-cream producers to restaurateurs.
Slow it down Stay in one of Spain’s agriturismi: accommodation offered on small working farms. After making the most of Algusto, head to Casa Zalama (tel. +34 947 565 961, casazalama.com, rooms from €50) or Posada Aire de Ruesga (tel. +34 942 641 000, airederuesgahotel.com, rooms from €68), each less than an hour’s drive west of Bilbao. Both are renovated country homes where you can choose to enjoy the comfort of delicious meals, home-cooked by the agriturismi owners, or source ingredients and dream up your own dinners. For the latter, take a stroll through Bilbao’s El Mercado de la Ribera, Europe’s largest covered market, built in 1929 (in the old city centre).
Top tastes Spend an evening lingering over traditional tapas, known in Bilbao by their Basque name pintxos. Hop from bar to bar, sipping a glass of wine and snacking on sumptuous nibbles. The pace and conversation literally drag the meal out over several hours. Wander through Bilbao’s Casco Viejo (old city) to try the traditional Café Iruña (5 Berastegi Kalea) or trendy El Globo (8 Calle Diputación).
Where? Brussels, Belgium
Why? Brussels is the perfect spot to set off cycling through the Low Countries. Last year, Carl and his family (he lives in London with his wife and two children) spent their summer holiday cruising alongside canals on this slowest mode of transport, enjoying the spontaneous human exchanges that ensued from their strange-looking tandem.
Slow it down Book a bike and barge holiday (www.2wheeltreks.co.uk, seven days from €660 per person) departing from Brussels and looping into Holland. Snooze as the boat navigates the rivers Vecht and Waar. By day, cycle along canal banks and designated bike paths through charming Belgian and Dutch towns.
Top tastes Be sure to pop into Mmmmh! (92 Chaussée de Charleroi) to pick up mouth-watering treats.
They stock tangy preserved lemons by chef Malika Hamza (president of Slow Food Brussels) and other delicious delights. Alternately, learn how to make them yourself at one of Hamza’s cooking classes (innovative-cuisine.com).
Where?London, UK
Why? While London may seem the antithesis to the Slow life, the city is actually proof that being Slow is a state of mind, not a location. London has a volcanic energy and is teeming with ideas, but it was formerly a series of villages that have now merged. The city is equipped with the infrastructure needed to slow down.
Slow it down One of the simplest ways to slow down in London is simply to walk the central neighbourhoods, like Mayfair, or check out the city’s beautiful squares.
Take a picnic to a park or sample a selection of the world’s greatest galleries. What better way to slow down than in contemplation of a fine artwork? Take a saunter through the Tate Modern (www.tate.org.uk) or meditate on the meaning of Dali’s melting clocks at the Dali Universe (daliuniverse.com), both on London’s South Bank. The metropolis also possesses a rapidly growing food culture. Enjoy a leisurely lunch in a gastro-pub or café and watch the world go by.
Top tastes One restaurant to relish is the combined food hall and restaurant Flâneur (41 Farringdon Road, tel. +44
(0)20 7404 4422). It takes its name from wealthy 19th century Parisians who wandered aimlessly around the city’s markets, occasionally even leading a tortoise! Flâneur hosts many of Slow Food London’s meetings and events (www.slowfoodlondon.com). From the food hall, stock up on Poilâne loaves, Neil’s Yard cheeses and organic vegetables from Secretts in Surrey. The restaurant itself excels at tagliolini with ceps, charcuterie with pickled Spanish figs and braised lamb with button onions. A three-course meal without wine will cost about £30 per person.
Where? Turin, Italy Why? Turin is a beautiful, living, compelling city. And it’s not clichéd or overrun with tourists like Florence and many other Italian cities. It’s also approximately 50km from Bra, where the Slow Food Movement has its headquarters.
Slow it down Although you won’t be able to visit Slow Food’s most popular event this November – the five-day Salone del Gusto (the next one is in 2008) – head over to the Eataly complex (230 Via Nizza, tel. +39 011 1950 6811, www.eatalytorino.it), opened earlier this year in Turin’s former Carpano vermouth factory. Eataly contains eight restaurants, two cafés, a gelateria, a library and a cookery school, all scattered around a giant indoor market. Slow Food runs various daily food workshops, focusing on everything from organic apple juice to stuffed zucchini flowers.
Workshops are normally in Italian – be sure to call ahead for details. Top tastes The restaurant Dai Saletta (37 Via Belfiore, tel. +39 011 668 7867), run by the Saletta family for the past 23 years, is the place to go for a taste of slow food. Try the antipasti platter, which may include Moncalieri tripe and Tomino cheese, or the tagliatelle peposelle, smothered in nuts, green peppercorns and Gorgonzola. On average, a three-course meal without wine costs €30 per person.
Carl Honoré is the UK Maverick for the Crowne Plaza Think Tank Campaign. For more information about the Mavericks or to benefit from Think Tank business tips, please visit www.crowneplazathinktank.com
FR » Eloge de la lenteur
Le Mouvement Slow Food, avec 80 000 membres et 850 représentations dans le monde, est une campagne proactive de sensibilisation contre la nourriture et la vie rapides. Carl Honoré, auteur de In Praise of Slowness, nous propose son choix personnel de villes et d’activités pour initier les plus novices à l’esprit de lenteur.
Bilbao, Espagne
Algusto est une foire gastronomique, représentant principalement les producteurs de la péninsule ibérique. Essayez agriturismi, une autre façon de ralentir le rythme en Espagne, avec de petites fermes qui offrent des locations de vacances et des repas faits maison à base de produits locaux. Vous pouvez également vous promener dans la vieille ville et vous arrêter pour déguster un verre de vin accompagné de pintxos, les tapas basques.
Bruxelles, Belgique
Réservez un vélo et partez dans un périple au départ de Bruxelles en faisant une boucle par la Hollande. La nuit, vous dormez sur un bateau et la journée, vous pédalez le long des berges du canal. Entrez chez Mmmmh! pour savourer quelques délices ou pour apprendre à les cuisiner vous-même, sous la conduite du chef Malika Hamza.
Londres, UK
Une façon très simple de ralentir à Londres est de se promener dans les quartiers du centre et sur les magnifiques places. Emportez un pique-nique dans un parc ou repérez l’une des plus prestigieuses galeries d’art au monde. Prenez le temps d’un lunch dans un pub gastronomique et regardez simplement le monde en train de tourner. Ne manquez pas le marché et restaurant Flâneur, qui accueille les réunions et les événements de Slow Food London.
Turin, Italie
Rendez-vous au complexe Eataly, avec des restaurants, des cafés, une librairie et une école de cuisine, le tout rassemblé autour d’un énorme marché intérieur. Slow Food y tient quotidiennement différents workshops. Essayez aussi le restaurant Dai Saletta.
NL » Graag traag!
De Slow Food-beweging voert met zo’n
80.000 leden en 850 afdelingen wereldwijd een proactieve campagne tegen de snelle hap en het haastige leven. Carl Honoré, auteur van In Praise of Slowness, geeft nieuwe onthaasters persoonlijke tips voor steden en activiteiten.
Bilbao, Spanje
Voedingsbeurs Algusto brengt producenten van het Iberische schiereiland samen. Heerlijk onthaasten doe je in de Spaanse agriturismi, kleine boerderijen met gastenverblijven en maaltijden op basis van lokale producten. Of kuier door het oude stadscentrum en strijk neer voor een glas wijn en pintxos, de Baskische tapas.
Brussel, België
Boek een boot- en fietsvakantie die je van Brussel tot in Nederland brengt. Lekker luieren op een binnenschip, met gezellige fietstochten op de kanaaloevers ter afwisseling. Spring binnen bij Mmmmh! voor heerlijke ingrediënten of leer ze er zelf te bereiden met chef-kok Malika Hamza.
Londen, Verenigd Koninkrijk
Ook in Londen kan je onthaasten. Verken de centrale wijken en prachtige pleinen te voet, picknick in een park of bezoek enkele van ’s werelds beste musea. Geniet rustig van een lunch in een gastronomische pub en kijk hoe de wereld voorbijvliegt. Bezoek voedingswinkel en restaurant Flâneur, waar Slow Food London vergadert en evenementen organiseert.
Turijn, Italië
In het Eataly-complex vind je restaurants, cafés, een bibliotheek en een kookschool rond een reusachtige overdekte markt. Slow Food geeft er elke dag verschillende workshops. Probeer zeker het restaurant Dai Saletta!
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