German fashion was once thought of as safe and boring, but the latest generation of designers working in the capital is changing the fashion world’s perceptions, as Philippe Pourhashemi discovers
What is it about Berlin designer fashion that makes it so cool, appealing and easy to wear? The style city, which now competes with Paris, London and New York in terms of buzz, creativity and innovation, not only offers a multitude of retail possibilities – from ultra-chic designer boutiques and multi-label stores, to trendy, independent streetwear shops – but also has a carefree design attitude and unusual take on style, emphasising a playful and refreshing approach to clothes.
Long gone are the days when only industry heavyweights such as Adidas, Strenesse, Puma, Escada, Hugo Boss and Jil Sander ruled the runways and exported German style abroad. Back then, German fashion was safe, office-appropriate and rather dull.
That all began to change in the late 1990s with the emergence of Bernhard Willhelm, who was born 35 years ago in Ulm, south-west Germany. His offthe-wall streetwear and folklore-inspired pieces proved highly influential and became an instant must-see during Paris Fashion Week, where he made his debut in 1999.
Although Willhelm studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and doesn’t primarily define himself as a German designer, his use of oversized clothes, flashy colours and explosive prints caught the eye of global trendsetters and shifted the fashion world’s attention to Germany’s style innovators and the raw energy of the scene in its capital, Berlin.
A new breed of talented designers is now making its mark and giving the city an irresistible flair. The proof of such excitement was without a doubt the first official Berlin Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week that took place in July, mixing international designers such as Vivienne Westwood and CP Company with local – and often unknown – talent.
For the first time, a panel of cultural, media and fashion representatives nominated four young designers from a pool of 200 up-and-coming Berlin-based talents to present their collections on the catwalk in front of an international audience. The four-day event attracted fashion crowds and generated interest from press and retailers alike, reclaiming Berlin’s supremacy as a forward-thinking style capital. It also proved Germany has its own fashion voice and that local talent has to be made more visible and promoted accordingly.
Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Roehler, the dynamic duo behind the label Kaviar Gauche, are among the first to have successfully sold Berlin style abroad. Their circular patchwork bags, which mix exotic skins with patent leather and suede, were an instant hit and now sell in London, Stockholm, Paris and Tokyo. Charlize Theron, Brittany Murphy and German actress Heike Makatsch are devoted fans.
Despite having high standards, Kaviar Gauche items remain affordable, making them competitive on a global fashion scale. Decent prices are one of the trademarks of this realistic new wave of designers. Kaviar Gauche’s women’s collection features beautifully crafted evening wear, as well as simple everyday pieces that can be dressed up or down to suit.
No wonder most of these new designers are female – in Berlin, sisters are definitely doing it for themselves.
Sisi Wasabi is another Berlin brand with a unique approach to fashion. The label was founded in 2004 by Carolin Sinemus and Anna Zerlina von dem Bussche, a 27-year-old whose work is grounded in the tradition of haute couture and refined craftsmanship. The collection offers combinations of sharply tailored pieces and quirky, folklore elements, which nevertheless retain a global, wearer-friendly feel.
Aimed at young, stylish women, the clothes can also easily be worn by chic ladies who favour elegance and precise cuts. A black silk-satin gathered top can be paired with tailored buttoned shorts, while a cute cropped cape jacket is shown with a beige, high-waisted skirt, to give the female silhouette a sexy, contemporary kick.
Sisi Wasabi vintage-inspired bags use retro metal fastenings and unexpected details, such as silk-satin bows and trinkets. Zerlina only uses the finest materials and works with a clean, simple palette, preferring monochrome looks and vibrant shades to fussy prints and gimmicks. The label is sold across the globe, including in Spain, Italy, Austria, Switzerland and Japan.
Smeilinener, a kooky line designed by Mischa Woeste, operates at the other end of the spectrum but is equally representative of the new wave of Berlin fashion. Woeste’s clothes are bright, eccentric and unashamedly girly. She works with traditional fabrics and wants to design clothes that are joyful, colourful and timeless. Many of her creations are one-offs, made with silk, cotton, leather or wool, which she sells abroad and in her small, central-Berlin boutique.
One of Woeste’s trademarks is the full skirt, which she does in a variety of shapes and fabric combinations. Her diamond knitwear pieces and crazy patchwork tops, mixing lambskin leather with silk-satin, all come in deep, vibrant shades. Woeste loves feminine shapes, and although some of her pieces may seem overpowering at first, they are beautifully made and can be easily mixed with classics and everyday basics.
In September 2006, Woeste won the Baltic Fashion Award, which was under the chairmanship of Escada’s director Wolfgang Ley, who lauded her collection and technical skills. Woeste says she gets her inspiration from her international travels and often brings back fabrics, colours and textures to use in her collections. Her work process is therefore a complete blend of styles, mixing different patterns, fabrics and influences to make something new and completely individual.
This individual streak is, perhaps, the best-kept secret of these new designers.
Berlin fashion is making global style and traditions approachable and easy to wear, while nevertheless keeping the edge and cool factor that have come to define the city.
FR> Berlin, la nouvelle vague
Question mode, Berlin aujourd’hui rivalise avec Paris, Londres et New York en termes de visibilité, de créativité et d’innovation. En matière de stylisme, la scène berlinoise fait preuve d’une attitude totalement libre et inattendue, avec un style enjoué et une approche toute nouvelle du vêtement.
En Allemagne, la mode auparavant était sans éclat et sans risques. Mais depuis peu une jeune génération de talentueux stylistes occupe le terrain et prouve l’émergence de Berlin comme lieu dynamique de la mode – la première Semaine de la mode, événement officiel ‘le Berlin Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week’ s’est déroulée en juillet 2007, alternant créateurs de renommée internationale et talents locaux.
Johanna Kühl et Alexandra Fischer-Roehler, le duo de choc derrière Kaviar Gauche, font partie des premiers talents à avoir réussi à vendre le style berlinois à l’étranger. Leurs sacs circulaires patchwork en cuir ont fait instantanément un tabac et se vendent à l’heure actuelle à Londres, Stockholm, Paris et Tokyo.
Le côté abordable est la marque de fabrique de cette nouvelle vague de designers. Outre les robes de soirées magnifiquement brodées, la collection prêt-à-porter de Kaviar Gauche pour les femmes, comporte des pièces de tous les jours qui peuvent être rehaussées ou minimisées selon les circonstances.
Sisi Wasabi est une autre marque de Berlin avec une approche individuelle de la mode. Fondée par Zerlina von dem Bussche en 2004, la collection offre des combinaisons inattendues de pièces parfaitement coupées et excentriques avec des éléments de folklore.
Smeilinener, par Mischa Woeste, fait également partie de la mouvance. Les vêtements sont brillants, marginaux et très filles, sans restriction. Certains sont également des pièces uniques. Woeste puise son inspiration dans ses voyages aux quatre coins du globe d’où elle ramène souvent des étoffes, des couleurs et des textures qu’elle intègre dans ses futures collections. Son travail mélange les styles, les motifs et les matières pour aboutir à quelque chose de nouveau et d’unique.
Cette ligne individuelle est sans doute le secret le mieux gardé de ces nouveaux créateurs. La mode à Berlin est en train de définir un style global où les traditions deviennent plus abordables et faciles à porter, tout en maintenant ce facteur décontracté, devenu depuis un certain temps l’esprit dominant de la ville.
NL> Nieuwe Berlijnse golf
In de mode kan Berlijn vandaag wedijveren met Parijs, Londen en New York in buzz, creativiteit en innovatie. Een los design gaat er vergezeld van een ongewone kijk op stijl en een frisse en speelse benadering van kleding.
Vroeger was Duitse mode braaf en eerder saai. Nu is echter een nieuwe generatie talentrijke designers opgestaan. En alsof er nog bewijs nodig was voor Berlijns opgang aan het modefirmament vond in juli 2007 de eerste officiële Berlijnse Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week plaats. Daarbij deelden beroemde internationale designers de catwalk met lokaal talent.
Johanna Kühl en Alexandra Fischer-Roehler, het dynamische duo achter Kaviar Gauche, waren bij de eersten om de Berlijnse stijl met succes te exporteren. Hun ronde lederen patchworktassen waren meteen een hit en zijn nu te koop in Londen, Stockholm, Parijs en Tokio.
Deze nieuwe golf designers hebben van betaalbaarheid hun handelsmerk gemaakt. Naast prachtig uitgevoerde avondkledij bevat de collectie vrouwenkleding van Kaviar Gauche ook doordeweekse stukken, die zowel elke dag als bij speciale gelegenheden te dragen zijn.
Sisi Wasabi is een ander Berlijns merk met een individuele benadering van mode. Het werd opgericht door Zerlina von dem Bussche in 2004 en de collectie bevat verrassende combinaties van strak ontworpen kledingstukken met grillige folklore-elementen.
Ook Smeilinener van Mischa Woeste is representatief voor de nieuwe Berlijnse golf. De kledingstukken zijn fleurig, excentriek en ongegeneerd meisjesachtig. Het zijn bovendien vaak unieke exemplaren. Woeste put haar inspiratie uit haar internationale reizen en brengt vaak stoffen, kleuren en texturen mee voor haar volgende collectie. In haar werk versmelten stijlen, patronen, stoffen en invloeden tot iets nieuws en unieks.
Dat individualisme is misschien het best bewaarde geheim van de nieuwe designers. De Berlijnse mode maakt wereldwijde stijl en tradities bereikbaar en aangenaam om dragen, maar behoudt ook de ‘cool’ die zo typerend is voor de stad.
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