Images Kris Dewitte
The festive season is upon us and whichever venue you choose, Brussels is sure to have something for you. Bring along a sense of adventure and, as Martin Banks reports, you can be sure of a brilliant time
The newly gentrified district of Saint-Gilles is as good a place as any to start a night out in the self-proclaimed capital of Europe. The once rundown commune – now riding high on the success of the Eurostar train service, which stops at Midi station in the lower, poorer part of Saint-Gilles – has recently attracted an influx of youngish, affluent couples who work hard and play even harder.
At the heart of it all is Brasserie Verschueren (11-13 Parvis de Saint-Gilles, tel. (0)2 539 4068), an Art Deco bar in the shadow of Saint-Gilles church, which provides a grand setting for a lingering beer or two. Recently restored, the brasserie offers customers the pleasures of stained-glass windows and period light fittings, as well as fuel food in the form of homemade soup.
A few doors away at Brasserie de l’Union (55 Parvis de Saint-Gilles, tel. (0)2 538 1579), Belgians, Africans, Portuguese, football fans and arty bohos mingle over coffee and cigarettes. It’s a casual hangout and a good spot to while away an hour or so before going clubbing. The café also occasionally hosts live African music in the evenings.
Take a short walk via the Barrière de Saint-Gilles intersection and you’ll come across Chez Moeder Lambic (68 Rue de Savoie, tel. (0)2 539 1419). Occupying a cosy corner spot next to the spruced-up Saint-Gilles town hall, this former bikers’ pub now attracts all sorts from the increasingly gentrified neighbourhood. Although the windows are obscured by beer mats and posters, don’t be intimidated – it’s a good place to take visitors who crave a real Belgian beer (it serves 300 types) and the atmosphere is cheery.
Jump in a taxi and, still in Saint-Gilles, you’ll encounter slightly more upmarket establishments with clientele to match. One of the most popular is Chelsea (85 Chaussée de Charleroi, tel. (0)2 544 1977). From the street, it looks like another fancy restaurant, but carry on through and you’ll find a beer garden and an almost decadent club lounge with an oriental twist. Unsure how to spend the evening? Hang out here and switch corners to match your mood.
Nearby is Kolya (102 Chaussée de Charleroi, tel (0)2 533 1830), where the lovely terrace makes you feel far away from the city, even though you are slurping cocktails and snipping the occasional cigar right on its doorstep.
A short walk across Avenue Louise brings you within striking distance of Ixelles commune, traditionally the in-place for the city’s young and trendy. This ultra-cosmopolitan area is packed at weekends and provides endless places to have a great time, irrespective of your tastes and/or budget.
Stop by L’Atelier (77 Rue Elise, tel. (0)2 649 1953), a cosy bar tucked away on a side street in Ixelles’ ULB quarter. It’s hard to find but well worth the effort – the candle-lit back room is dominated by a wall menu boasting more than 200 Belgian beers, from the lowly Maes to the elusive Fantome. Thankfully, the place’s charm seems to have survived a modernisation effort (they still spin vinyl on a turntable).
By now, you might appreciate a spot of fresh air, so why not take a brisk 10-minute walk, via Ixelles ponds, to the famous Café Belga (Place Eugène Flagey, tel. (0)2 640 3508). Everyone seems to love this Flagey landmark. Even though almost everything about it is unpleasant – from the too-cool-for-school bartenders to the horrible view and the chichi patrons – it’s always packed to the rafters.
Just around the corner in this bustling, if slightly scruffy area, is Le Tavernier (445 Chaussée de Boondael, tel. (0)2 640 7191), with probably the best student terrace in town. Created by Saint-Géry bar guru Fred Nicolay, it was a smart move to plonk a bar in the middle of the university quarter by Ixelles cemetery. The stylish brown, metallic and brick interior is complemented by a huge courtyard, one section heated, the other open-air and leafy. Students and other hip young things talk and drink the night away. Expect great music, with regular DJ gigs and live jazz on Wednesdays.
Not far away is L’Ultime Atome (14 Place Saint-Boniface, tel. (0)2 511 1367), the perfect people-watching hangout on a corner in Ixelles’ lively Matonge district. Minimalist, modern but oh-so-stylish, it has a vast selection of beers, a food menu and bar staff apparently hired from a modelling agency. No wonder it’s so popular.
From here, jump on a No.92 tram just up the road on Avenue Louise and head for the bright lights of the city centre. By now you’ll be slightly tipsy but, hopefully, still in enough control of your faculties, so head for the ultra-trendy and ever-busy Saint-Géry quarter, near the Bourse (stock exchange).
A current hot spot is Le Fontainas (91 Rue Marché au Charbon, tel. (0)2 503 3112), a club with one of Brussels’ trendiest terraces. With the picturesque Saint-Jacques church over the road and cobblestoned streets all around, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Italy. The cool soundtrack of electronic tunes and the 1950s’ decor are the work of an art collective. When the DJ starts spinning in the late evening, even the briefest of visits can quickly turn into an all-nighter.
Tucked away behind Halles Saint-Géry is Coaster (28 Rue des Riches Claires, www.coaster-bar.com), where the music is good, the service friendly and the cocktails delivered in frosty shakers.
It seems sequestered and mischievously off-grid. Don’t go before 3am.
A five-minute walk via Grand’Place is Le Sud (45 Rue de L’Ecuyer), a popular venue transformed from an unsafe dive into a trendy nightclub. The peanuts, vodka and Middle-Eastern influenced interior are still in evidence, but there are now three rooms. Listen to current hits in the main area, techno-oriented sounds in the smallest and head to the basement for ‘oldies’ (1970s and 1980s).
If you fancy escaping the hustle and bustle of the city centre, hop in a cab and take the short trip to Chez Johnny (24 Chaussée de Louvain, tel. (0)2 227 3959), a place that embodies a bit of the Belgian spirit. It’s kitsch, quirky, doesn’t take itself too seriously and, above all, knows how to have fun. Chez Johnny starts swinging early and ends late. It has DJ battles, table-dancing competitions, karaoke and something it likes to call ‘American quarter-of-an-hour’ – basically, a chance for the ladies to grab the cutie at the bar and slow-dance. There are also free dance classes.
A couple of doors away is one of Brussels’ most exclusive clubs, Mirano (38 Chaussée de Louvain, tel. (0)2 227 3941), housed in a converted cinema. You don’t have to look as though your stepped off the pages of Vogue to get in, but stylish attire is required – trainers are a definite no-no. Once inside, the revolving dancefloor and flashing lights may elicit a chuckle, but be prepared to let yourself go – this is a place designed for carefree fun.
New Year’s Eve parties
Havana (4 Rue de L’Epee) is offering punters the chance to make a real night of it on 31 December. For €75, you can enjoy a three-course meal, unlimited drinks (including champagne) and entry to the club’s party to welcome the new year. Alternatively, for €15, you can get a ticket to after-midnight party. Either way, tickets are available by calling (0)2 502 1224 or emailing info@havana-brussels.com.
The New Year’s Eve party at Fuse (208 Rue Blaes), one of the city’s premier clubs since it opened in 1994, promises to be a top evening with appearances by guest DJs Technasia and Oliver Ho. The club is open from 11pm to 7am and admission will set you back €10 before midnight and €15 afterwards. For tickets, call (0)2 511 9789 or email info@fuse.be.
End-of-the-year parties are also being held at Bazaar (63 Rue des Capucins, tel. (0)2 511 2600, www.bazaarresto.be) and Fiesta Bar (20 Quai des Usines, tel.
(0)2 248 2088, www.fiestabar.be).
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