Text David Kaufman
Map illustration Jason Pickersgill/Acute Graphics

Israel’s second city has much too offer – from unique Bauhaus architecture to glorious sandy beaches

When it comes to the sort of urban amenities required to create a world-class destination, Tel Aviv has been fairly well blessed.

Its real estate – a prime slice of Mediterranean ringed by silky beaches – has the look of Rio coupled with a Miami kind of vibe. Its locals, with their year-round tans and carefree attitude, are as sexy as they are fun. Its food – a blend of European traditions spiced with Levantine and Arab influences – is inventive, indulgent and surprisingly affordable.

And its easy-going vibe and all-night action reflect a sense of tolerance and open-mindedness that surprises even seasoned globetrotters. Best of all, compact and easy to manage, Tel Aviv is as accessible as it is exotic, perfectly suited for a long weekend or an exciting base for a longer tour around Israel.

NEW PORT

One look at it today and it’s almost impossible to believe that, barely five years ago, Tel Aviv’s port was a more or less abandoned municipal wreck. Originally founded in 1936, the port welcomed new immigrants and fresh freight for three decades until 1965.

For almost 30 years the port languished. But in 2002, it was given a sleek, million-dollar makeover.

Now it has emerged as Tel Aviv’s most compelling culinary and nightlife haunt, with more than a dozen restaurants, bars and lounges gracing a stylish new sea-front promenade. It’s a hive of activity day and night. Breakfasters pack the loft-like Gilly’s (Hangar 25, tel. (0)3 605 7777) for its champagne brunches, or Shalvata (near Hangar 25, tel. (0)3 544 1279) for classic bacon and eggs, served on a private beach.

At the Comme il Faut Cafe (Hangar 26, tel. (0)3 544 9211) – an ultra-stylish offshoot of the cutting-edge local women’s fashion brand – look for healthy lunch items like ceviche with zucchini and cilantro or quinoa salad with pears and brazil nuts. Grilled meat and fish are on the menu at nearby Armada (Hangar 22, tel. (0)3 544 5522). Do dinner at Mul Yam (Hangar 24, tel. (0)3 546 9920), where Tel Aviv’s top chef Yoram Nitzan drizzles 25-year-old vinegar on grilled shrimp and blends crab, truffles and morels into frothy cappuccino.

Work off the calories with a night of salsa and 80s music at Rivendell (3 HaTa’aruha Street, tel. (0)3 602 3129), smooth grooves at the Shablul Jazz lounge (Hangar 13; tel. (0)3 546 1891) or world music beats at Galina Bar (Hangar 19, tel. (0)3 544 5553). For the less energetic, there are massages and Martinis at the Sea Breeze Spa & Bar (Hangar 23; tel. (0)3 544 4214).

Come summer, the port offers live jazz at night and antiques and organic food markets at the weekend, with organised activities for kids of all ages. Best of all, the New Port is covered by the largest wi-fi system in Tel Aviv – and it’s free.

GAN HAHASHMAL

Named after Israel’s first power station, which opened in 1923, Gan HaHashmal (meaning ‘Electric Park’) was Tel Aviv’s unofficial red-light district until the late 90s. Street walkers and junkies crowded the area’s bushes, kitchen supply shops were the only retail options and once-grand homes fell into disrepair. But when the city renovated the district a few years ago, children returned to the playground, young families began buying into the area and Tel Aviv’s nascent indie fashion scene found an affordable place to call home.

Today, little is left of the area’s seedy past. It’s been replaced by cutting-edge boutiques, healthy organic restaurants and small-scale – yet jam-packed – nightspots. During the day, engage in a dose of retail therapy at Delicatessen (4 Barzilay Street, tel. (0)3 560 2297). It sells delicious cutting-edge clothes by designer Idit Barak, who trained with Norma Kamali during the decade she spent in New York City. At Nait (10 Mikveh Yisrael, tel. (0)3 560 0402) Nait Rosenfeld displays her cosy array of woolen sweaters, Asian-inspired dresses and a tiny men’s capsule collection.

At Kisim (8 HaHashmal Street, tel. (0)3 560 4890), Yael Rosen’s ultra-thin, locally made leather bags, clutches and totes (also sold in the US and Europe) are available in their entire range of colours and patterns. Further north, area newcomer Shine (12 HaRakevet Street, tel. (0)3 560 1658) stocks designer Alice Dahan’s signature styles – distressed jeans, sporty-chic tanks and sexy T-shirt dresses – along with a finely-edited selection of clothes and accessories from cult Israeli and European designers. Finally, pair those new clothes with shoes from Shani Bar (3 Mikveh Yisrael, tel. (0)3 560 5981), whose mini flagship shop displays her wide range of shoes, bags and belts, all created in her studio upstairs.

JAFFA

One of the oldest cities in the world, and reputedly where Jonah set sail for his fateful meeting with a whale, Jaffa is an exciting mix of East and West just moments from downtown Tel Aviv. Must-sees include the Shuk Hapishpeshim flea market (go on Fridays for the best wares), a walk through the historic old district and a visit to the Ilana Goor Museum (4 Mazal Dagim Street, tel. (0)3 683 7676). Home to the internationally renowned sculptor and furniture maker, this stunning 250-year-old mansion was originally built to welcome Jewish pilgrims and is now filled with Goor’s personal collection of art and knick-knacks.

Finish the tour with a late lunch at Pooa (3 Rabbi Yohanan Street, tel. (0)3 682 3821), a café and restaurant in the heart of the Flea Market with a charming store attached to it. Or sample shakshuka – a spicy North African blend of eggs, peppers, tomatoes and spices cooked on an open flame – at Dr Shakshuka (3 Beit Eshel Street, tel. (0)3 518 0794). Save room for dessert at Victory, an Arab-owned ice cream parlour on the corner of Rehovs Yahet and Louis Pasteur Streets. A true Tel Aviv institution, with its Jewish-Arab clientele ordering scoops in a Hebrew-Arabic patois, Victory offers a vision of the peaceful Middle East each side so desperately craves.

NEVE TZEDEK

Perched just above Jaffa’s northern border and south of what is now known as the Yemenite quarter, Neve Tzedek (Oasis of Justice) was Tel Aviv’s first Jewish neighborhood. Founded in 1887 by pioneer Aaron Chelouche, 22 years before the city was officially established, the district eventually became home to important early-Israeli artists and authors, including Nobel Prize-winning author Shmuel Yosef Agnon. Like much of southern Tel Aviv, Neve Tzedek fell into disfavour and disrepair during the 60s and 70s. But by the 80s, its airy, Ottoman-era homes – many with traditional Levantine courtyards – were snapped up by far-sighted investors and today regularly sell for over €700,000.

Visit this quarter to shop and dine. Catit (4 Haychal HaTalmod Street, tel. (0)3 510 7001), for instance, is set in a former Ottoman-era mansion that once housed Tel Aviv’s first hotel. Today Catit displays the Middle East-meets-West creations of cordon bleu-trained chef Meir Adoni. His eggplant and goats’ cheese mousse or lamb meatballs with chickpeas and rich green meluchiya (a traditional Egyptian herb) are modern Mediterranean fare at its tastiest best.

Close by, the new Dallal (10 Shabazi Street, tel. (0)3 510 9292) is an haute café serving everything from premium burgers (as a trio) to marinated fish paired with tomato confit in an elegantly renovated 80-year-old building. And just up the road is Shlush Shloshim (30 Chelouche Street, tel. (0)3 510 6067), a ceramics collective representing Tel Aviv’s most important potters. See a piece you like and you might just meet the artist browsing the gallery as well.

Located right on Neve Tzedek Street itself, Nina Cafe Suites Hotel (29 Shabazi Street, tel. (0)3 516 1767, www.ninacafehotel.com) is Tel Aviv’s first boutique hotel. The five-suite retreat is hidden within a red-tiled building with a style and spirit reminiscent of a Parisian pension. Room service and morning breakfast is delivered from Nina Café, located across the street.

While there’s nothing cutting-edge about Tel Aviv’s luxury hotels, the David InterContinental (12 Kaufman Street, tel. (0)3 795 1111, www.interconti.com) is as close as the city gets to cool. This soaring, 600-room, glass-walled affair was good enough for Madonna during her Kabbalah pilgrimage last year and remains both a business and leisure leader. If you’re looking to truly splurge, the Hilton Tel Aviv (Independence Park, tel. (0)3 520 2222, www.hilton.com) is north Tel Aviv’s luxury leader. And nothing could be more luxe than its King White City Executive Suite, which celebrates the city’s iconic Bauhaus core with endless glass walls for perfect Mediterranean views.

Built in the 1930s, the Esther Cinema was one of the first movie theatres in Israel. Today, the Hotel Cinema (1 Zamenhoff Street, tel. (0)3 520 7100, atlashotels.co.il) combines 82 simply-designed rooms and low-key service with original cinematic details – movie posters, film projectors and theatre chairs. There are business facilities and a jacuzzi as well, but the Cinema’s best feature is clearly its Dizengoff Circle location, making it close to everything.

The Sheraton Tel Aviv Hotel and Towers (115 Hayarkon Street, tel. (0)3 521 1111, www.sheraton.com/telaviv) scores points for location, service, style and cuisine. Situated just above prime sunning spots like Gordon Beach and moments from Dizengoff Street’s shopping, the 342-room Sheraton also scores points for its tasty Mediterranean-styled Olive Leaf restaurant, outdoor pool and high-tech, executive-friendly tower rooms. Also on the beach is the Sea Executive Suites (76 Herbert Samuel Street, tel. (0)3 795 3434, www.sea-hotel.co.il), a Mediterranean-front property with a designer cool vibe along with a gym, in-room PCs and hip lobby espresso bar.

A short stroll away is the venerable Hotel Dan Tel Aviv (99 Hayarkon Street, tel. (0)3 520 2525, danhotels.com), the city’s oldest (recently renovated) hotel. This is where anyone who’s anyone stays, from diamond dealers and arms merchants to heads of state and Hollywood heavyweights Sharon Stone and David Lynch.

FR Gros plan sur Tel Aviv

Compacte et facile arpenter, Tel Aviv est une ville idéale pour un long week-end ou encore un bon point de départ pour un tour d’Israël.

En 2002, le port de Tel Aviv a bénéficié d’un million de dollars de rénovation, les restaurants et les bars bordant avec style la promenade de front de mer. Gilly’s (Hangar 25) est réputé pour ses brunches au champagne. Pour dîner, essayez les créations du super chef Yoram Nitzan à Mul Yam (Hangar 24). Laissez-vous envoûter par les rythmes de la Salsa et la musique des années 80 à Rivendell (3 HaTa’aruha St) et réservez-vous ensuite un massage et quelques martinis au Sea Breeze Spa Bar (Hangar 23).

Gan HaHashmal était le quartier « chaud » non officiel de Tel Aviv jusque dans les années 1990, lors de la rénovation du parc. Profitez d’une bonne shopping-thérapie chez Delicatessen (4 Barzilay Street), ou chez Nait (Mikveh Yisrael 10), maison mère des collections de Nait Rosenfeld. Shine (12 HaRakevet Street) propose des vêtements griffés, qui portent la signature de la styliste Alice Dahan, à côté d’autres lignes issues des collections des stylistes de mode cultes israéliens et européens. Et pour les chaussures, une bonne adresse est chez Shani Bar’s (Mikveh Yisrael 3).

L’une des plus vieilles cités du monde, Jaffa n’est vraiment pas très éloignée du centre de Tel Aviv. Les centres d’intérêts incluent le Marché aux puces, une promenade à travers le coeur “Historique” ainsi qu’une visite au Ilana Gur Museum (4 Mazel Dagim Street). Finissez la journée avec un lunch chez Puah (3 Yochanan Street) ou n’hésitez pas à goûter un “shakshuka” – une spécialité épicée nord africaine – cuite audessus d’un feu ouvert, chez Dr. Shakshuka (3 Beit HaEshel Street). Gardez un peu de place pour le dessert chez Victory, un glacier dont le propriétaire est arabe.

Neve Tzedek est le premier quartier juif de Tel Aviv. Dînez dans le tout bon restaurant Catit (4 Haychal HaTalmud) ou dans le Dallal (10 Shabazi Street) tout proche, qui sert de tout, depuis des hamburgers jusqu’au poisson mariné accompagné de confit de tomates. Nina Cafe Suites (29 Shabazi Street) s’impose comme le premier hôtel- boutique de Tel Aviv, tandis que c’est au David InterContinental (12 Kaufman Street) que Madonna a effectué un séjour lors de son pèlerinage dédié à la Cabale l’année dernière. L’ancien cinéma The Cinema Hotel (1 Zamenhoff Street) combine 82 chambres d’un design simple et un service discret avec des détails originaux du monde du cinéma.

NL Tel Aviv binnenstebuiten

Tel Aviv is compact en overzichtelijk. Ideaal voor een citytrip of als uitvalsbasis voor een rondreis door Israël.

In 2002 gingen miljoenen dollars naar de vernieuwde haven van Tel Aviv, nu een stijlvolle dijk met tal van restaurants en bars. Gilly’s (Hangar 25) is beroemd om zijn champagnebrunchen. Dineren doe je bij topchef Yoram Nitzan in Mul Yam (Hangar 24). Geniet van salsa en jaren 80-muziek in Rivendell (3 HaTa’aruha St) en laat je masseren met een martini in de hand in de Sea Breeze Spa Bar (Hangar 23).

Gan HaHashmal was de officieuze ‘rosse buurt’ van Tel Aviv tot de jaren 90, toen het park werd heraangelegd. Shop je gelukkig bij Delicatessen (4 Barzilay Street) of bij Nait (Mikveh Yisrael 10), met collecties van Nait Rozenfelder. Shine (12 HaRakevet Street St) heeft naast collectiestukken van ontwerpster Alice Dahan, ook merkkleding van cultdesigners uit Israël en Europa. Voor schoenen moet je bij Shani Bar’s (Mikveh Yisrael 3) zijn.

Jaffa, een van de oudste steden ter wereld, ligt op wandelafstand van het centrum van Tel Aviv. Niet te missen: een bezoek aan de vlooienmarkt, een wandeling door de ‘historische’ wijk en een bezoek aan het Ilana Gur Museum (4 Mazel Dagim Street). Ga lunchen bij Puah (3 Yochanan Street) of proef ‘shakshuka’, een pikante Noord-Afrikaanse specialiteit, op open vuur bereid bij Dr. Shakshuka (3 Beit HaEshel Street). Hou plaats voor een dessert in Victory, een Arabisch ijssalon.

Neve Tzedek is de eerste Joodse wijk van Tel Aviv. Dineer in toprestaurant Catit (Haychal HaTalmud, 4) of probeer het vlakbij gelegen Dallal (10 Shabazi Street), waar zowat alles kan, van hamburgers tot gemarineerde vis met gekonfijte tomaten. Nina Cafe Suites (29 Shabazi Street) is het eerste boetiekhotel van Tel Aviv en David InterContinental (12 Kaufman Street) was Madonna’s uitvalsbasis tijdens haar kabbalabedevaart vorig jaar. De voormalige bioscoop The Cinema Hotel (1 Zamenhoff Street) combineert 82 eenvoudig ingerichte kamers en een discrete service met leuke filmdetails.

Latest posts from: incoming