Text Sarah Ellis
Combining culture, great shopping, nightlife and greenery, Bristol is the jewel in south-west England’s crown
BRISTOL
UNITED KINGDOM
With nearly 800 years of history behind it, Bristol has gone through many phases, from trading supremacy in the 16th century to urban über-cool in the late 20th century. Full of apparent contradictions, it’s a place of tradition and antiquities yet never seems static; a hub of cultural excitement where things remain laid-back. The older generation adores it, and young people are also drawn to it. In short, it has something for everyone.
OLD TOWN
In medieval times Bristol was an important trading post, and the structure of the old city hasn’t changed significantly, as you’ll notice by wandering through the streets. The majesty of the red-brick buildings contrasts with the contemporary faces of trendy, quirky shops and bars. The 11th-century castle might be long gone but Castle Park, an oasis in the city, has taken its place. Try a luxury smoothie from Juice Hub (The Prudential Buildings, Wine Street) and relax on the grass overlooking the river if you’re blessed with a warm spring day.
St Nicholas Markets are a quaint treasure not to be missed, with stalls outside, inside and in the arcade at the back. Many of the shops are very specific in their wares, such as Trethowan’s dairy shop and Evangeline’s wedding shop. Go at lunchtime and choose from Lebanese, Indian or traditional pie and mash. Caribbean Wrap consistently has the longest queues, and serves the best rice and peas in the city.
In the evening, wind down with a drink at Severnshed (The Grove) or The Apple (Welsh Back), or choose from the distinguished European fare at Mud Dock (The Grove). Then decide if you fancy gigs and clubbing at the Thekla (East Mud Dock) or a play at the Old Vic Theatre (King Street).
CENTRE
Down by the water, the Arnolfini (16 Narrow Quay) is the arts centre that was converted from a tea warehouse in the 70s. Back then it was a new concept but it now seems integral to the Bristol way of life, showing exhibitions and arthouse films in a truly contemporary setting. At the other side of the dock is the Watershed media centre (1 Canon’s Road), another place to catch independent cinema or relax in the chilled-out café-bar.
Not everybody will be interested in avant-garde movies, but kids and adults alike will enjoy Explore@Bristol (Anchor Road, tel. 0845 345 1235, www.at-bristol.org. uk), a hands-on science museum just behind the waterfront, which has a programme of shows and exhibitions throughout March.
College Green is bounded on the south side by the splendid Bristol Cathedral, the perfect place for a moment’s quiet reverie. The Green itself is the domain of Bristol’s skater population all year round, and pretty much anyone on a sunny day! The city centre runs up from here. Park Street is fabulous for ladies’ clothes, wit
h BS8 (34 Park Street) and The Boot Room (20-22 Park Street) particularly recommended for bright young things. Cara (26 Park Street) and Noa Noa (77 Park Street) have gorgeous garments for those feeling a little more mature.
Bristol also boasts a crop of unique spots for one-off delights. Park Row is great for quirky and individual shops, and you can buy or exchange second-hand books or records at the popular Booty (82 Colston Street).
The city centre is bountiful when it comes to eating and drinking. Bocanova (90 Colston Street, tel. 0117 929 1538) offers exceptional Mediterranean cuisine, with live Brazilian music on Wednesdays, while Carpe Diem (Millennium Parade, tel. 0117 316 9173) is great for exciting menus using free-range meat and fresh produce.
Beer lovers are in for a treat at the Zero Degrees microbrewery (53 Colston Street, tel. 0117 925 2706). For more of a party atmosphere head to Park Street and the waterfront; bars like The Elbow Room (64 Park Street, tel. 0117 930 0242) and The River (1 Canon’s Road, tel. 0117 930 0498) are perfect for a big night out.
CLIFTON VILLAGE
The Village was created in the 18th century, as merchants began to move away from the docks. Clifton has retained its exclusive air; just feel the boutique effect as you head uphill from the city centre. The beautiful Clifton Arcade (Boyces Avenue) includes shops selling antique furniture and vintage jewellery, as well as the ever-popular bistro atmosphere of the Primrose Café. Around the corner is The Quadrant (2 Princess Victoria Street, tel. 0117 974 1025), a bar with one of the best wine selections in Bristol.
ASHTON COURT
This estate on the other side of the magnificent suspension bridge is a lovely place to spend time during March’s warmer moments. With breathtaking views over Bristol, it covers 850 acres of woods and grassland, and includes two 18-hole golf courses, mountain-bike tracks and a deer park. Perfect for getting away from the city. Call 0117 963 3438 or visit www.ashtoncourtmansion.co.uk.
GLOUCESTER ROAD
On the opposite side of the centre is this spectacular thoroughfare that runs through five or six areas but maintains its character throughout. One of the UK’s last great independent high streets, it’s well worth a visit. Larsen Home Brew (36 Gloucester Road) is a slice of nostalgia in itself, while Rooted Records (9 Gloucester Road) is the place for sound advice on the underground music scene – especially dubstep and grime.
The Pipe and Slippers (118 Cheltenham Road, tel. 0117 942 7711) and The Prince of Wales (5 Gloucester Road, tel. 0117 924 5552) are both big hits with the native youth of Bristol; One30 (130 Cheltenham Road, tel. 0117 944 2442) is a slightly more refined alternative. After a few drinks, try to get in to Jesters Comedy Club (142 Cheltenham Road, tel. 0117 909 6655). TV stars Peter Kay and Catherine Tate performed here early in their careers; why not go along and see if you can spot one of the stars of the future?
Where to stay
The Mercure Brigstow (5 Welsh Back, tel. 0117 929 1030, mercure.com) is a modern, stylish hotel with rooms overlooking the water, and plasma screens in the bathrooms. For a lower-budget option in a great waterfront location, try YHA Bristol (14 Narrow Quay, tel. 0870 770 5726, yha.org.uk).
The Hotel du Vin (Narrow Lewins Mead, tel. 0117 925 5577, hotelduvin. com) offers stunning rooms and lofty suites, plus an award-winning restaurant and an elegant library.
Avon Gorge Hotel (Sion Hill, tel. 0117 973 8955, theavongorge.com) is a historic hotel in a fantastic location, with unparalleled views over the gorge. Clifton Village is on the doorstep and Ashton Court is only a saunter over the Clifton Suspension Bridge.
For a great-value option in the Gloucester Road area, opt for the Full Moon Backpacker Hotel (North Street, Stokes Croft, tel. 0117 924 5007, fmbristol.co.uk).
Choose between dormitories and private rooms, and don’t miss the attached pub.
FR Gros plan sur Bristol
Avec environ 800 ans d’histoire derrière elle, Bristol a traversé de nombreuses phases, et peut proposer aujourd’hui un angle particulier à chaque visiteur.
Dans la Vieille Ville, dirigez-vous vers l’original St Nicholas Markets, où l’on recense parmi les vendeurs spécialisés, le magasin de produits laitiers Trethowan et la boutique de mariage d’Evangeline. Côte alimentation, vous croulerez sous le choix. Caribbean Wrap sous l’Arcade de verre sert le meilleur riz et pois de la ville. Le Mercure Brigstow (Welsh Back, tél. 0117 929 1030) est un hôtel moderne, raffiné avec des chambres surplombant la rivière.
Dans la soirée, relaxez-vous en prenant un verre au Severnshed (The Grove), ou choisissez la cuisine européenne de distinction au Mud Dock (The Grove). Ensuite, décidez si vous voulez vous déhancher et faire du clubbing au Thekla (East Mud Dock) ou assister à une pièce au Old Vic Theatre (King Street).
Au cœur de la ville, le centre Arnolfini (16 Narrow Quay) est réservé aux arts, après une reconversion d’un dépôt de thé dans les années
70. Les enfants adoreront Explore@Bristol (Anchor Rd), un musée dédié aux sciences proposant des expositions durant tout le mois de mars. College Green est bordé du côté sud par la splendide Cathédrale de Bristol. Le quartier dans les environs de Park Street est fabuleux pour les vêtements pour dames, tandis que Park Row se prête au shopping individuel de haute catégorie. L’Hôtel du Vin (Narrow Lewins Mead, tél. 0117 925 5577) dispose de chambres magnifiques et d’un restaurant étoilé.
Remontez depuis le centre jusqu’au Village de Clifton, avec son atmosphère singulière. La baroque Clifton Arcade (Boyces Avenue) comprend des magasins de meubles antiques et de joaillerie ancienne, ainsi que le très populaire Primrose Café.
De l’autre côté du centre ville se trouve la rue spectaculaire de Gloucester Road, l’une des dernières avenues commerçantes, véritablement caractéristiques du Royaume-Uni. Larsen Home Brew (36 Gloucester Road) et Rooted Records (9 Gloucester Road) sont des hauts lieux. L’Hôtel Full Moon Backpackers (North Street, Stokes Croft, tél. 0117 924 5007) offre un choix de chambres dortoirs ou privées, d’un très bon rapport qualité-prix.
NL Bristol binnenstebuiten
Het 800 jaar oude Bristol heeft dankzij haar rijke geschiedenis voor elk wat wils.
Bezoek in de historische binnenstad zeker de traditionele St Nicholas markten. Je vindt er allerlei speciaalzaken, zoals zuivelwinkel Trethowan’s en trouwwinkel Evangeline’s. Je kan er ook heerlijk gevarieerd eten. Caribbean Wrap in de Glass Arcade serveert de beste ‘rice and peas’ van de stad. De Mercure Brigstow (Welsh Back, tel. 0117 929 1030) is een stijlvol, modern hotel met kamers met zicht op de rivier.
Relax ‘s avonds bij een drankje in de Severnshed (The Grove) of kies uit de uitgebreide Europese kaart bij Mud Dock (The Grove). Ondertussen beslis je of je gaat voor dansen en livemuziek in de Thekla (East Mud Dock) of voor een toneelstuk in het Old Vic Theatre (King Street).
In het centrum ligt kunstencentrum Arnolfini (16 Narrow Quay), ondergebracht in een in de jaren 70 gerenoveerde theeopslagplaats. Kinderen zullen dol zijn op Explore@Bristol (Anchor Rd), een interactief wetenschapsmuseum met speciale evenementen in maart. Aan de zuidzijde van de College Green ligt de prachtige kathedraal van Bristol. Het nabijgelegen Park Street is beroemd voor zijn damesmode, terwijl je in Park Row allerlei interessante winkels vindt. Het Hôtel du Vin (Narrow Lewins Mead, tel. 0117 925 5577) heeft prachtige kamers en een toprestaurant.
Wandel vanuit het centrum de heuvel op naar het exclusief ogende Clifton Village. De historische Clifton Arcade (Boyces Avenue) huisvest winkels met antieke meubelen en oude juwelen, en het immens populaire Primrose Café.
Aan de andere kant van het centrum ligt de spectaculaire verkeersader Gloucester Road, een van de allerlaatste echt karaktervolle hoofdstraten in Engeland. Larsen Home Brew (Gloucester Road 36) en Rooted Records (Gloucester Road 9) zijn twee aanraders. In het Full Moon Backpackers’ Hotel (North Street, Stokes Croft, tel. 0117 924 5007) is het goed(koop) logeren, met keuze uit slaapzalen of privékamers.
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