Later this month, the historic Belgian town of Mons (Bergen in Dutch) hosts two of the country’s most revered folklore festivals. Renée Cordes offers a sneak preview
From giants to jousting, Belgium takes its medieval folklore traditions seriously. Two of the most celebrated events happen in Mons on Sunday 18 May: the Battle of Lumeçon, recreating the legendary fight between Saint George and the evil dragon, and the Procession of the Golden Chariot.
True to custom, both events occur in Mons, or Bergen, on Trinity Sunday, always one week after Pentecost. The capital of Hainaut province, this city of around 93,000 inhabitants is located 50km south-west of Brussels and is an easy day trip by train or car.
Festivities kick off at 10am, when the horse-drawn Louis XVI-style gilt carriage travels through town carrying the relic shrine of Saint Waudru, the town’s patron saint, accompanied by musicians, singers, flag-bearers and horsemen.
The procession lasts for two hours, following an itinerary largely unaltered since 1804. It’s worth staying until the end when the chariot ascends the Saint Waudru ramp, horses and all. Legend has it that Mons will suffer bad luck if the horses fail to carry the shrine back to the church without faltering.
Part two of the double feature begins at 12.25pm in Mons’ stately central square. The brave St George rides on horseback, accompanied by eight loyal Chinchins (his protectors), pursuing the dragon. Supported by 11 townsmen, the dragon is escorted by devils and savages.
The origins of the Battle of Lumeçon can be traced to a medieval play performed by the
Fraternity of Saint George, founded in 1380. The brotherhood sought to honour the cult of its patron state and organise plays in his honour. It has faithfully continued the tradition until today.
Audience participation is a key part of the show. Those in the front row grab at the monster’s tail, trying to pull out the hair and ribbons, which are said to bring good luck.
Three times the dragon gives a long swirl of his tail and knocks over the Chinchins, but after a dramatic fight, good – as always – triumphs over evil.
After the pageants, there’s still a whole afternoon to hit some highlights of this oft-overlooked town and the surrounding area.
Don’t miss…
Attractions in Mons and the surrounding area
1 Parc Paradisio
Domaine de Cambron (Cambron-Casteau train station), www.paradisio.be
One of the most beautiful places in Belgium, Parc Paradisio, between Mons and Ath, is an animal park most famous for its 3,000+ birds. Located on the grounds of a 12th-century Cistercian abbey, the family-friendly park also houses a magical aquarium and stages a popular birds of prey show daily.
2 Museum of Contemporary Arts
Grand-Hornu, www.mac-s.be
Known to locals as MAC’s, the Museum of Contemporary Arts, recognised as one of Wallonia’s best, is situated in the old Grand-Hornu industrial mining complex (built in the early 19th century). Catch an exhibition on the convergence of arts, sciences and religion until 1 June.
3 Imagipark
1 Avenue du la Grand Large, Mons, www.imagipark.be
Unique in Belgium, Imagipark is a mind-dizzyingly huge leisure centre for kids and adults on four hectares of land overlooking a huge lake. From the indoor and outdoor playgrounds to the 16-lane bowling alley and go-kart track, there’s oodles to entertain the whole family for hours.
4 Sel et Sucre
6 Rue de Nimy, Mons, tel. (0)65 590507, www.seletsucre.be
Housed in a former priory, Sel et Sucre (whose name means Salt and Sugar) serves up elegant cuisine in sometimes surprising combinations, such as scallops served on a bed of mackerel carpaccio and smoked eel.
5 Maison du Jazz
51 Boulevard Dolez, www.jazzhainaut.be
Catch a concert or listen to rare discs at the non-profit Maison du Jazz, a haven for aficionados of the music genre.
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