Not content with its glorious setting, Turin is also northern Italy’s powerhouse of ideas and innovation
Text Kathryn Tomasetti
Images Alamy, photolibrary.com, Getty Images, 4Corners, Corbis
Map illustration Jason Pickersgill/Acute Graphics
According to Swiss architect and designer Le Corbusier, Turin has “the most beautiful natural location” of any city in Europe. Surrounded by the Alps, it certainly enjoys one of the most dramatic panoramas. It’s also one of the country’s greenest cities.
As the first capital of the newly united Italy – home to the Holy Shroud, FIAT and the best Egyptian museum outside Cairo, creator of Vermouth, Lavazza coffee and gianduia chocolates – Turin is as culturally rich as it is innovative. And with the celebrations held to mark its World Design Capital 2008 status (torinoworlddesigncapital.it) in full swing, there’s never been a better time to visit.
PIAZZA CASTELLO & VIA PO
When the house of Savoy moved its capital to Turin in the late 16th century, Duke Emanuele Filiberto chose Piazza Castello’s square as his power base. With Turin named World Design Capital 2008, it only makes sense to check out Palazzo Madama’s exhibition of works by famed Italian designer Roberto Sambonet (palazzomadamatorino.it). While you’re there, take a crash course in Italian architecture – the Palazzo encompasses everything from 15th-century castle walls to a 1930s tower and Filippo Juvarra’s spectacular sweeping staircase inside. If Renaissance masterpieces are more your style, pop into the Biblioteca Reale (the Royal Library) on Piazza Castello for a peek at Leonardo da Vinci’s amazingly honest self-portrait.
Whether you’re a film buff or just have a head for heights, hit the city’s landmark Mole Antonelliana (20 Via Montebello). Home to the National Museum of Cinema, the Mole also has a glass lift which soars to a vertiginous platform for dizzying views over the city.
Once you’ve worked up an appetite, grab a perfect pizza at Sfashion Café (13 Via Cesare Battisti, tel. 011 516
0085). Alternatively, duck into Galleria Subalpina, a 19th-century shopping arcade, where Arcadia (tel. 011 561 3898) does good sushi.
Nearby, Via Po connects Piazza Castello with the gorgeous expanse of Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Stop for an aperitivo at Caffè Elena (5 Piazza Vittorio Veneto, tel. 011 812 3341), which was Nietzsche’s preferred place for pondering, or try the student-friendly La Drogheria (nr. 18).
THE QUADRILATERO
Via Garibaldi provides a well-trodden path into the city’s oldest quarter, the Quadrilatero Romano. A mix of Roman ruins, medieval churches and winding alleyways, the Quadrilatero has shed its seedy reputation in recent years. Buzzing with a new-found dynamism, the area is Turin’s best choice for offbeat boutiques.
Fans of contemporary art should take a good look at Palazzo di Città (Via Palazzo di Città). It’s hard to miss Corrado Levi’s Baci Urbani (Urban Kisses), a giant steel body piercing that punctures one corner of Turin’s city hall. Or head for the streets of the western Quadrilatero where, with the assistance of MAU (Urban Art Museum, arte2000.net/mau), local artists have created murals and installations.
Pick up jars of loose teas at Turin’s oldest herbalist shop, Rosa Serafino Erboristeria (5 Piazza della Consolata). La Terra della Donne (18 Via San Domenico) is stacked with vintage treasures, from 20s hats to 50s handbags. Purchase regional foods at the Oasi dei Prodotti Tipici della Campagna Piemontese market, in Piazza Palazzo di Città (on the first Sunday of the month) or Piazza Madama Cristina (the third Sunday of the month).
The vibrant Piazza Emanuele Filiberto is lined with bars – Slow Food café Cook & the City (No. 3, tel. 011 067 3585) does good cocktails, while staff at Arancia di Mezzanotte (No. 11, tel. 011 521 1338) load your table with free snacks as you order.
Just around the corner, the Tre Galli (25 Via Sant’Agostino, tel. 011 521 6027) wine bar packs in clients from early evening until the wee hours, serving up local dishes like bagna caôda (a blend of anchovies, garlic and oil for dipping crudités). Off the beaten track, but well worth the trek, Oryza (57 Via Bertola, tel. 011 513 0574) serves 15 types of risotto.
PIAZZA SAN CARLO & VIA ROMA
The arcades of Via Roma spill south from Piazza Castello, sheltering the chicest names in Italian fashion. Head here for the likes of Armani, Gucci and Prada. If you’re after a truly special way to part with your money, head to Puccio (22 Via Santa Teresa) and pick up a pair of hand-crafted shoes.
Just beyond Via Roma and home to some of the city’s best cafés, Piazza San Carlo may be Turin’s most elegant square. There’s plenty of history here: leading light of the unification movement Cavour indulged in candied chestnuts at Confetteria Stratta (No. 191), while Caffè San Carlo (No. 156) was the first bar in Italy to install gas lighting. Caffè Torino (No. 204) was a favourite haunt of screen sirens Ava Gardner and Brigitte Bardot. You can also visit the newly renovated Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano (National Museum of Italian Unification, Palazzo Carignano, 5 Via Accademia della Scienza) here, the former home of the first Italian Parliament.
THE RIVER PO
The River Po bisects the city, providing Turin with fresh air and lush greenery. If you’re seeking some respite from metropolitan hustle and bustle, stroll through the open spaces of Parco del Valentino or rent a bike at the park’s kiosk and hit some of the city’s 115km of cycle paths.During the first two weeks of May, opera enthusiasts can see an exhibition dedicated to 19th-century tenor Francesco Tamagno at the park’s Borgo Medievale (Medieval Castle).
Designed by Alessandro Antonelli, the Casa Scaccabarozzi (corner of Via Giulia di Barolo and Corso San Maurizio) is known locally as Fetta di Polenta (the polenta slice). Check it out and you’ll see why – its six yellow storeys are a staggering 27m wide by 5m deep.
Just around the corner from Piazza Vittorio Veneto are the Murazzi: 19th-century arches built along the banks of the River Po. This riverside arcade is the epicentre of Turin’s club scene. After dark, hit the Jam Club (19 Murazzi del Po) or head to Da Giancarlo (45 Murazzi del Po) where, if you’re lucky, you may rub shoulders with local bands Africa Unite and Subsonica.
Where to stay
Turin’s hotels are busy during the week, but if you’re visiting the city at the weekend, check if your hotel offers the Weekend in & around Torino package. This includes two nights B&B for two at a reduced price plus a two-day Torino + Piemonte Card covering public transport and entry to many museums.
Piazza Castello & Via Po
In contrast to its antique facade, Town House 70 (70 Via XX Settembre, tel. 011 1970 0003, www.townhouse.it/th70, rooms from €150) is ultra-modern inside.
The Quadrilatero
Many contemporary artists have lent their creative skills to the Art Hotel Boston (70 Via Massena, tel. 011 500359, hotelbostontorino.it, rooms from €110, weekend deal €109 per person). Or enjoy the more personal atmosphere at the intimate Art’Tò (89 Corso Duca degli Abruzzi, tel. 393 915 0111, www.art-to.it, double rooms from €65).
Piazza San Carlo & Via Roma
Occupying the top floor of a 19th-century palazzo, Hotel Artuà & Solferino (3 Via Brofferio, tel. 011 517 5301, hotelartuasolferino.it, rooms from €45 per person) is a real bargain. For an indulgent weekend, book some spa treatments at the Victoria Hotel (4 Via Nino Costa, tel. 011 561 1909, www.hotelvictoria-torino.com, rooms from €195).
The River Po
Stay across the river at the pretty Ostello per la Gioventù (Youth Hostel, 1 Via Alby, tel. 011 660 2939, beds from €15), which offers kayak lessons and wi-fi access. You will need to be a member of a hostelling organisation.
FR Gros plan sur Turin
Turin est une ville riche autant pour sa culture que pour son côté innovateur. Et aujourd’hui le moment est sans doute le bienvenu pour la visiter, après sa désignation au titre de Capital Mondiale du Design et les célébrations qui s’ensuivent. (torinoworlddesigncapital.it).
Découvrez l’exposition de travaux au Palazzo Madama (palazzomadamatorino.it), ou faites un saut à la Biblioteca Reale sur la Piazza Castello pour jeter un œil à l’autoportrait de Léonard de Vinci. Mole Antonelliana (20 Via Montebello), qui héberge le Musée National du Cinéma en Italie, offre d’étonnantes vues sur la ville.
Le Quadrilatero est parsemé de boutiques branchées, tandis que les bars s’alignent le long de la Piazza Emanuele Filiberto. Cook & the City (no. 3) prépare de bons cocktails; le personnel d’Arancia di Mezzanotte (no. 11), couvre votre table de snacks gratuits. Les arcades de la Via Roma abritent les noms les plus chics du monde de la mode et la Piazza San Carlo peut être considérée comme la place la plus élégante de Turin.
Sillonnez les espaces verts du Parco del Valentino, ou louez un vélo au kiosque du parc et explorez les quelques 115km de pistes cyclables de la cité.
Dès le coucher du soleil, rendez-vous au Jam Club (19 Murazzi del Po) ou chez Da Giancarlo (45 Murazzi del Po). Si vous visitez Turin durant le week-end, veillez à ce que votre hôtel vous offre un package ‘Week-end à Turin’ (normalement deux nuit d’hôtel à prix réduit plus une réduction sur l’entrée dans les plus grands musées et autres sites). Townhouse 70 (70 Via XX Settembre, tél. 011 1970 0003, townhouse.it, chambres à partir de €179) est ultra-moderne. Regardez du côté de l’Art Hôtel Boston (70 Via Massena, tél. 011 500 359, hotelbostontorino.it, chambres à partir de €110). L’Hôtel Artua & Solferino (3 Via Brofferio, tel. 011 517 5301, hotelartuasolferino.it, chambres à partir de €50) est une vraie bonne affaire. Et si vous voulez vraiment en profiter à fond, réservez à l’hôtel Victoria (4 Via Nino Costa, tél. 011 561 1909, hotelvictoria-torino.com, chambres à partir de €195). Le bel Ostello per la Gioventù (1 Via Alby, tel. 011 660 2939, lits à partir de €15, chambres à partir de €40) vous offre aussi des leçons de kayak sur le Po.
NL Turijn binnenstebuiten
In Turijn gaan cultuur en innovatie hand in hand. Bovendien viert de stad nu volop haar status als World Design Capital 2008 (torinoworlddesigncapital. it). Het ideale moment dus voor een bezoek.
Bewonder de collectie van het Palazzo Madama (palazzomadamatorino.it) of ga naar de Biblioteca Reale aan de Piazza Castello voor het zelfportret van Leonardo da Vinci. Vanuit Mole Antonelliana (Via Montebello 20), nu het Nationale Filmmuseum van Italië, heb je een adembenemend zicht op de stad. Het Quadrilatero staat bekend voor zijn originele boetieks en de Piazza Emanuele Filiberto voor zijn cafés. Cook & the City (nr. 3) maakt lekkere cocktails, terwijl het personeel van Arancia di Mezzanotte (nr. 11) je verwent met gratis snacks. Voor de grote modenamen moet je in de winkelgalerij van de Via Roma zijn. De Piazza San Carlo is een van de mooiste pleinen van Turijn.
Kuier door het Parco del Valentino of huur een fiets in de kiosk van het park en verken de ruim 115 km fietspaden van de stad.
Voor nachtelijk vertier kan je terecht in de Jam Club (Murazzi del Po 19) of in Da Giancarlo (Murazzi del Po 45). Kom je voor een weekend, kijk dan of je hotel geen ‘Weekend a Torino’-pakket heeft (gewoonlijk 2 overnachtingen tegen een gunsttarief en kortingen voor belangrijke bezienswaardigheden). Townhouse 70 (Via XX Settembre 70, tel. 011 1970 0003, townhouse.it, kamers vanaf € 179) is ultramodern. Probeer ook het Art Hotel Boston (Via Massena 70, tel. 011 500 359, www.hotelbostontorino.it, kamers vanaf € 110). Het Hotel Artua & Solferino (Via Brofferio 3, tel. 011 517 5301, www.hotelartuasolferino.it, kamers vanaf € 50) is zeer gunstig geprijsd. Reserveer voor een verwenweekend een kamer in het Victoria Hotel (Via Nino Costa 4, tel. 011 561 1909, www.hotelvictoria-torino.com, kamers vanaf € 195). Het charmante Ostello per la Gioventù (Via Alby 1, tel. 011 660 2939, bedden vanaf € 15, kamers vanaf € 40) biedt kajaklessen op de Po aan.
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