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Budapest is a city hard to defi ne. Things are constantly changing in the Hungarian capital and just when you think you’ve got it fi gured out, something new appears to prove that you didn’t. Carolyn Bánfalvi gives her modern take on a city that hasn’t forgotten its past
From the countless monuments and plaques to the grand old buildings and austere museums, Budapest’s past screams out from every corner. For a glimpse of the city’s Communist past head up to the Liberty Statue, perched above the city on Gellert Hill. It’s a prominent feature of Budapest’s cityscape and was built to mark liberation from Nazi rule by Soviet soldiers in 1945. Also worth visiting is the Szobor park (www.szoborpark.hu), a 45-minute bus ride from the city centre, where you’ll find an impressive collection of giant bronze statues from the Soviet era. But Budapest is also a modern city with everything needed to keep even the pickiest visitor busy – stylish restaurants and fantastic local wine, new hotels, a vibrant music and arts scene, gorgeous modern architecture, bohemian bars and shops galore. Its modern aspects compete with the historic ones, as it looks towards the future while keeping just the right balance with the past.
The city’s diversification is evident everywhere, in the number of talented young designers who have created a vibrant design scene here, in the new generation of bars and restaurants that are opening in all districts, and in events such as Sziget Festival – an annual fiesta of music that takes place on an island on the Danube every August. These highlights provide the perfect starting point to experience the city as locals do.
Once home to Franz Liszt, Béla Bartók and Zoltán Kodály, Budapest’s music scene has long centred around classical music. You can still catch performances at the stunning art nouveau Liszt Ferenc Academy of Music (8 Liszt Ferenc tér, www.zeneakademia.hu), which is worth taking a peek inside anyway to check out the two pretty concert halls, where you may find music students rehearsing or performing graduation concerts.
But those visiting Budapest in August won’t be able to ignore the posters plastered all over the city’s baroque façades hailing Sziget Festival (www.sziget. hu/fesztival). Now in its 15th year, the festival takes place from 12-18 August on Óbudai Island (accessible by HÉV commuter train from Batthyány tér) and is the summer musical highlight of the region. This year’s line-up includes The Killers, REM, Jamiroquai, Alanis Morissette and The Kooks.
Beyond the festival, the heart of Budapest’s folk music scene is Fonó (3 Sztregova utca, fono.hu), where dances are accompanied by live bands. A favourite among Buda’s hip, young things is A38, a ship-cum-nightclub and restaurant (Buda end of PetofiBridge, a38.hu). Formerly a Ukranian stone carrier, it’s now one of the city’s most popular nightspots, where Hungarian musicians perform alongside top DJs.
The Danube river – which runs through the middle of the city, with Buda on one side and Pest on the other – is central to the Hungarian capital’s image. Where the river bends at the Margaret Bridge, there’s a fantastic view of the parliament building in Pest and the castle in Buda. The river’s Margaret Island attracts runners, walkers, swimmers and strollers.
Steer away from the tourist crowds and join the locals on the city-run boat (operated by BKV, bkv.hu) from Jászai Mari tér or Batthyány tér. Get off at Rómaifürdo, with its row of open-air restaurants, and refuel before heading back to town. Enjoy the scenery in a more stylish way, with a cocktail in hand, at the Spoon Café & Lounge (spooncafe.hu), located on a docked ship in front of the InterContinental Hotel on the Pest side of the river.
One of the most promising signs that Budapest is emerging as a cutting-edge city are the clusters of art galleries transforming otherwise unremarkable neighbourhoods into contemporary design districts. They first started to appear around the castle on Várfok utca, but have multiplied in recent years on Ráday utca, Király utca and in a few enclaves in districts six and seven.
One of the new galleries here is G13 (13 Király utca, g13.hu), which juxtaposes works by well-known Hungarian artists such as László Moholy-Nagy and André Kertész with more contemporary pieces. Another gallery worth checking out is Pixel Galéria (10-12 Fény utca) at Millenáris (www.millenaris.hu), a park and cultural complex on the grounds of a former foundry in Buda.
Budapest isn’t called the ‘city of spas’ for nothing. Millions of litres of thermal mineral water gush up daily to fill the city’s spas, pools and even some of its drinking fountains.
The best-known traditional public bath houses, such as Széchenyi (11 Állatkerti körút) and Gellért (4 Kelenhegyi út), have long attracted the biggest crowds. But these days, Budapest also has a clutch of beautiful hotel spas, which make for a more elegant and modern (and significantly pricier) spa experience.
Try the Royal Spa at Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal (43-49 Erzsébet körút, www.royalspa.hu), where the main pool is reminiscent of Gellért. Or get a massage in the rooftop spa at the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace (5-6 Roosevelt tér, www.fourseasons.com/budapest).
Budapest’s shopping scene was once known for its folksy ceramics and textiles. The best of these can still be found at Mester Porta (7 Corvin tér, www.mesterporta.hu), but now you can also find all the major high-street fashion brands in the city.
For an insider shopping extravaganza, explore the city’s burgeoning design scene. Hungarian designers often work on such a small scale that their designs number just a handful. Shop for chic, one-off clothes at stores such as Retrock Deluxe (1 Henszlmann Imre utca, www.retrock.com), Barackruha (4 Baross utca, barackruha.hu), Eclectick (20 Irányi utca, www.eclectick.hu) and Mono (20 Kossuth Lajos utca, www.monofashion.hu). Pick up eye-catching jewellery, ceramics, textiles and pieces for the home at design stores featuring work by young Hungarian designers. Magma (11 PetofiSándor utca, magma.hu) and Bolt (42-44 Kertész utca, www.boltmuhely.hu) are some good addresses to know.
If you’re in town for the design market WAMP (the next ones take place on 31 August and 21 September), which brings together local designers, you’re sure to find pieces your friends will crave.
There aren’t many of Hungary’s famed gilded coffee houses any more, but a few have been renovated and reopened after years of misuse.
New York Café (9-11 Erzsébet körút) is now part of a luxury hotel owned by the Boscolo group, and was restored with great attention to detail, albeit with modern elements and a pricier menu than the famous writers who once frequented it could have afforded. Centrál Kávéhaz (9 Károlyi Mihály utca, centralkavehaz.hu), meanwhile, has retained much of its original atmosphere, and a drink or a meal here is a must.
Summer means Budapest’s kerts (open-air bars) are in full swing. Don’t be put off by the run-down entrance or shabby chic aesthetic at Szimpla kert (kazincy U.14, szimpla.hu). As night falls the courtyard swells with the city’s cool, young things. Hajógyári Island is home to the more clubby Mokka Cuka. More recently, rooftop bars Fecske (8 Árpád Fejedelem útja, fecske.net) and Corvinteto (1-2 Blaha Lujza tér, corvinteto.com) and have been attracting local hipsters.
Hungary is a big wine-drinking country, and the wine improves with every year. To delve into the scene, come for the annual festival (winefestival.hu) in Buda Castle from 10-14 September, which attracts the country’s best winemakers.
Klassz (41 Andrássy út, klassz.eu) is currently the favourite bistro among Budapest’s foodies and wine lovers.
Bock Bisztró (43-49 Erzsébet körút, tel. (0)1 321 0340, bockbisztro.hu) serves Mediterranean-inspired cuisine and has an impressive wine list.
Kádár Étkezde (9 Klauzal tér, tel. (0)1 321 3622, lunch only Tuesday-Saturday) serves inexpensive traditional Hungarian cuisine.
Centrál Kávéház (9 Károlyi Mihály utca, tel. (0)1 266 2110, centralkavehaz.hu) has a more formal Hungarian restaurant on the upper level.
Café Kör (17 Sas utca, tel. (0)1 311 0053, www.cafekor.com), located near the Basilica, is a local favourite for its lighter versions of traditional dishes.
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace (5-6 Roosevelt tér, tel. (0)1 268 6000, www.fourseasons.com/budapest, doubles from €340) has the finest views and most luxurious rooms in town.
Lánchíd 19 (19-21 Lánchíd utca, tel. (0)1 419 1900, designhotels.com, doubles from €114) is a new design hotel.
Danubius Hotel Gellért (1 Szent Gellért tér, tel. (0)1 889 5500, www.danubiushotels. com/gellert, doubles from €135) has bags of character and a great spa.
Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget (District XIII, Margaret Island tel. (0)1 889 4752, www.danubiushotels.com/ grandhotel, doubles from €140) is a charming hotel on Margaret Island.
L’héritage du passé de Budapest surgit à tous les coins de rue, mais c’est aussi une cité moderne qui offre au visiteur tout ce qu’il peut souhaiter – des restaurants raffinés, de nouveaux hôtels, une scène artistique émergente, une architecture somptueuse et des boutiques tendances.
La scène musicale de Budapest est historiquement centrée sur la musique classique, et vous pouvez assister à des concerts de l’Académie de Musique Liszt Ferenc (8 Liszt Ferenc tér). Dans un autre registre, le Festival Sziget (www.sziget.hu/fesztival) se déroule sur l’Ile Óbudai du 12 au 18 août. Les groupes à l’affiche cette année incluent The Killers, REM et The Kooks.
Le Danube traverse la ville en son milieu et il constitue sans conteste la référence absolue de l’image de la cité. Eloignez-vous de la foule des touristes et attrapez un bateau vers Rómaifürdo. Rassasiez-vous sur l’une des terrasses d’un restaurant de l’endroit avant de rejoindre à nouveau la capitale.
Un grand nombre de galeries d’art ont transformé des quartiers, qui autrement seraient restés insignifiants, en lieux design et contemporains. Les galeries à noter sont G13 (13 Király utca) et Pixel Galéria (10-12 Fény utca).
Budapest est connue comme la ‘cité des thermes’. Les bains publics les plus réputés tels que Széchenyi (11 Állatkerti körút), attirent depuis longtemps les grandes foules. Pour une ambiance plus exclusive, on trouve les Royal Spa (43-49 Erzsébet körút) et les thermes situées au sommet du toit de l’hôtel Four Seasons Gresham Palace (5-6 Roosevelt tér).
Pour un total shopping de folie, explorez la scène hongroise du stylisme. Retrock Deluxe (1 Henszlmann Imre utca) et Mono (20 Kossuth Lajos utca) s’imposent pour les vêtements chics, de caractère. Au rayon bijoux attractifs, objets en céramique et textiles, les boutiques de design comme Forma Gallery (4 Ferenciek tere) et Magma (11 PetofiSándor utca) sauront vous combler.
Ensuite, pour vous reposer de cette course effrénée aux achats, allez souffler dans l’un des quelques anciens cafés qui subsistent dans la ville hongroise. Centrál Kávéhaz (9 Károlyi Mihály utca) a conservé une grande partie de son charme d’origine. Vous pouvez aussi essayer l’un des kerts (bars en plein air) de Budapest, comme Holdudvar par exemple, sur l’île Margaret.
Et n’oubliez surtout pas de goûter le vin local. Le festival annuel du vin se déroule au Château de Buda du 10 au 14 septembre.
Boedapests verleden schreeuwt je vanuit elke hoek toe. Maar dit is ook een moderne stad met alles wat een bezoeker nodig heeft: stijlvolle restaurants, nieuwe hotels, een bruisende kunstwereld, prachtige architectuur en winkels in overvloed.
Het muzikale schouwtoneel van Boedapest draaide lang tijd rond klassieke muziek. Ook nu nog kun je van concerten genieten in de Liszt Ferenc Muziekacademie (Liszt Ferenc tér 8). Sziget Festival (www.sziget.hu/fesztival) vindt van 12-18 augustus plaats op het eiland Óbudai. Op het podium staan dit jaar onder meer The Killers, REM en The Kooks.
De trots van de Boedapest, de Donau, loopt midden door de stad. Laat de massa toeristen achter je en neem een boot naar Rómaifürdo. Herlaad je batterijen hier in een van de openluchtrestaurants alvorens terug naar de stad te keren.
Een aantal kunstgalerieën transformeerden anders tot de vergetelheid gedoemde buurten tot eigentijdse designerwijken. Enkele waardevolle galerieën zijn G13 (Király utca 13) en Pixel Galéria (Fény utca 10-12).
Boedapest staat bekend als de ‘kuuroordstad’. De bekendste openbare badhuizen, zoals Széchenyi (Állatkerti körút 11) wisten altijd al massa’s bezoekers te lokken. Meer exclusieve badhuizen zijn Royal Spa (Erzsébet körút 43-49) en het dakkuuroord van het Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace (Roosevelt tér 5-6).
Voor een onvergetelijke winkelervaring buiten de platgetreden paden moet je in de wereld van het Hongaarse design zijn. Koop chique, unieke kledingstukken bij Retrock Deluxe (Henszlmann Imre utca 1) of Mono (Kossuth Lajos utca 20) en vergaap je aan opvallende juwelen, keramiek en stoffen in designwinkels zoals Forma Gallery (Ferenciek tere 4) en Magma (PetofiSándor utca 11).
Laat je getergde benen daarna rusten in een van de weinige Hongaarse koffiehuizen die er nog zijn. Centrál Kávéhaz (Károlyi Mihály utca 9) behield veel van zijn oorspronkelijke charme.
Of probeer een van Boedapests kerts (openluchtcafés), zoals Holdudvar op Margaret Eiland.
En vergeet ook de plaatselijke wijn niet te proeven. Het jaarlijkse wijnfestival loopt van 10-14 september in kasteel Buda.
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