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Destination Guides

How Swede it is…

Stockholm has a reputation for being a prohibitively expensive place to eat out. Not so, declares Victoria Larsson

Contrary to popular belief, it is possible to eat well in Stockholm without breaking the bank. With a little careful planning, you can indulge your inner foodie for as little as €30 a head. You just have to know where and when to go.

Berns Asiatiska

Berzelii Park
tel. +46 (0)8 566 32222, www.berns.se

The food Pan-Asian dishes served tapas-style: crispy Szechwan pork with Chinese soured cabbage, and lemon-grass chicken with peanut sauce.

The feel Set in a luxury hotel, the Berns Salonger, the dining room is a grand space hung with huge chandeliers. On Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays there’s live music from 9pm. It could be jazz, or pop, or acoustic soul.

The wine An exhaustive wine list that includes champagnes, dessert wines, rosés, reds and whites, with prices ranging from regular Stockholm pricey to utterly bank-breaking.

Best dish Moules marinière Thai-style (€10/SEK 105).

La Casa

12 Långholmsgatan
tel. +46 (0)8 668 7830, www.lacasa.se

The food Pizza from a wood-fired oven.

The feel Classic Scandi: light wood, white tablecloths and Ikea light fittings.

The wine Exclusively Italian. There’s a decent range of affordable reds and whites by the glass, as well as a dry prosecco.

Best dish The cozze: mussels and scampi with garlic, parsley and black pepper (€10,50/SEK 114).

Grill Ruby

14 Österlånggatan
tel. +46 (0)8 206015, www.grillruby.com

The food Classic American: surf and turf, lots of grilled meat.

The feel An upscale Texan steakhouse smack in the middle of Stockholm’s old town, with lighting that somehow makes everyone look pretty.

The wine The long list includes Austrian, Australian, Argentinian and, of course, American wines. If you do feel like splurging, go for the California Cabernet Opus One 1999.

Best dish The hamburger, served with Caesar salad and sweet potato gratin (€16/SEK 169).

Indian Garden

15 Heleneborgs gatan
tel. +46 (0)8 849498, www.indiangarden.se

The food Fragrant Indian dishes made with organic meat and locally sourced vegetables.

The feel Bollywood romantic: bright colours and a modern Indian soundtrack. This restaurant recently won Dagens Nyheter’s (Sweden’s biggest daily newspaper) prestigious award for best budget dining in Stockholm, so make a reservation or be prepared to wait.

The wine A better-than-average list, with organic wines served by the glass. Try the Carl Reh organic riesling.

Best dish Lamb papaya balti, sautéed with onions, garlic, peppers and papaya, served in a sizzling-hot iron pot (€15/SEK 169).

Ramblas

3 Långholmsgatan
tel. +46 (0)8 669 2536

The food Contemporary Spanish. Expect heaps of garlic, potatoes and manchego cheese.

The feel Dark wood tables and chairs, and textured wallpaper. Not a hip place but everyone goes there. It’s inexpensive, fun and friendly, especially for bigger parties. Make sure you call ahead, though.

The wine The wine list is affordable but far from amazing. A jug of sangria, made with red wine and loaded with fruit, is probably your best bet (€22/SEK 245).

Best dish You should opt for the tapas plates and share them. They’re surprisingly big, so don’t order too many. Go for the fried potatoes with aioli (€3,50/SEK 39) and the baked garlic mussels (€4,50/SEK 48).

Crêperie Fyra Knop

4 Svartensgatan
tel. +46 (0)8 640 7727

The food French crêperie food: savoury galettes and sweet crêpes.

The feel The restaurant is housed in a small, candle-lit basement, with rust-coloured walls hung with Stella Artois posters and African instruments.

The wine The wine list is short, French and very affordable. There’s one red and one white served by the glass for €4,50/SEK 48.

Best dish The crispy buckwheat galettes are all priced under €10/SEK 105. Try the Karl Alfred, stuffed with spinach, roquefort and tarragon-scented beef.

Tranan

14 Karlbergsvägen,
tel. +46 (0)8 52 728100, www.tranan.se

The food Classic and contemporary Swedish: potato pancakes, cured salmon and toast skagen (shrimps on sautéed bread).

The feel No frills. Tranan has been around since 1929, and what was once sparse out of necessity is now considered contemporary and minimal. Downstairs, there’s a bar that routinely plays host to big-name guest DJs, as well as acoustic performances by Swedish indie groups.

The wine The wine list – which is almost exclusively French – is excellent, but not that affordable. However, if you do feel like going over budget, the Louis Jadot 2005 Beaujolais-Villages is excellent and decently priced at €37/SEK 410.

Best dish Try the butter-fried herring (€14/SEK 145) or the wallenbergare – patties of minced veal and cream, served with peas and mashed potatoes (€18/ SEK195).

Pelikan

40 Blekingegatan
tel. +46 (0)8 556 09090, www.pelikan.se

The food Traditional Swedish cooking: fried Baltic herring with potatoes, pickled cucumber and anchovies, and roe and dill served on rye bread.

The feel Spacious, with six-metre-high ceilings and walls decorated with art nouveau-style paintings. There’s no music, only the sound of clinking cutlery and guests enjoying themselves – all carried by the amazing acoustics.

The wine The wine’s not much to write home about, so wash down your food with a few pints of

Don’t break the bank

Eating and drinking tips for Stockholm

Don’t have too many cocktails or too much wine – the higher the alcohol content a beverage has, the more heavily it’s taxed. If you want to have more than one drink, stick to beer, or you will break the bank, even if the food is a bargain.

If you don’t care what kind of draught beer you drink – and most Swedes don’t – just ask for en stor stark (‘a big strong’) and you’ll usually get a decent Swedish lager.

Many of the acclaimed and awarded restaurants also serve lunch, often for around €10 or less. This is a good way to experience the ambiance at culinary heavyweights such as Operakällaren, Grill and Vassa Eggen. Also look for bakficka (which translates as back pocket), a restaurant within a restaurant that offers more affordable, home-style cooking.

FR Douce Suède

Stockholm, une ville hors de prix lorsqu’il s’agit de dîner dehors ? “Pas tout à fait”, réplique Victoria Larsson

C’est surtout une question d’organisation. En calculant bien, vous pouvez vous payer un repas de gourmet pour 30 € seulement par personne. Il suffit simplement de connaître les bonnes adresses.

Berns Asiatiska Berzeli Park, tél. (0)8 566 322, berns.se Plats asiatiques proposés sur le mode ‘tapas’, dans une salle à manger cossue. Essayez les moules marinières préparées à la Thaï (10€/SEK 105).

La Casa 12 Långholmsgatan, tél. (0)8 668 78 30, lacasa.se Pizzas au feu de bois dans un décor scandinave typique. Testez la cozze : moules et scampis à l’ail, persil et poivre noir (10,50€/SEK 114).

Grill Ruby 14 Österlånggatan, tél. (0)8 20 60 15, grillruby.com Cuisine américaine classique dans un steakhouse texan de premier choix. Découvrez le hamburger, avec en garniture une salade César et un gratin de patates douces (16€/SEK 169).

Indian Garden 15 Heleneborgsgatan, tél. +46
(0)8 849498, indiangarden.se Plats indiens parfumés, à base de viande bio et de légumes cultivés localement. Goûtez l’agneau au balti et à la papaye avec des oignons et des poivrons, servi dans une marmite en acier posée directement sur la table. (15€/SEK 169).

Ramblas 3 Långholmsgatan, tél. (0)8 669 2536 Cuisine espagnole contemporaine dans une salle à manger huppée. Sélectionnez différents plats de tapas et partagez. Essayez les pommes frites à l’aïoli (€3,50/SEK 39) et les moules à l’ail gratinées au four (4,50€/SEK 48).

4 Knop 4 Svartensgatan, tél. (0)8 640 7727 De savoureuses galettes et des crêpes sucrées servies dans une cave illuminée aux chandelles. Optez pour la Karl Alfred, fourrée aux épinards, au roquefort et au boeuf relevé à l’estragon. (10€/SEK 105).

Tranan 14 Karlbergsvägen, tél. (0)8 52 728100, tranan.se Table suédoise contemporaine dans une ambiance minimaliste. Essayez le hareng frit au beurre (14€/SEK 145) ou le wallenbergare – chaussons farcis à l’émincé de veau à la crème (18€/ SEK195).

Pelikan 40 Blekingegatan, tél. +46 (0)8 55 609090, pelikan.se Cuisine suédoise de tradition servie dans une belle salle, très haute de plafond. Choisissez les boulettes de viande et leur sauce à la crème, accompagnées de cornichons et d’airelles (15€/SEK 164).

NL ‘Goedkööp’ tafelen

Stockholm heeft nogal een dure reputatie wanneer het op tafelen aankomt. Onterecht, vindt Victoria Larsson

Wie zich goed voorbereidt, kan al aan tafel schuiven vanaf € 30 per persoon. Je moet gewoon de juiste plek en het juiste moment uitkiezen.

Berns Asiatiska Berzeli Park, tel. (0)8 566 322, berns.se Pan-Aziatische gerechten in tapasstijl, opgediend in een weelderige eetruimte. De ‘moules marinières’ op z’n Thais zijn er overheerlijk (€ 10/SEK 105).

La Casa Långholmsgatan 12, tel. (0)8 668 78 30, lacasa.se Pizza uit de houtoven in een klassieke Scandinavische sfeer. Proef de cozze: mosselen en scampi met look, peterselie en zwarte peper (€ 10,50/SEK 114).

Grill Ruby Österlånggatan 14, tel. (0)8 20 60 15, grillruby.com Traditionele Amerikaanse gerechten geserveerd in een chic Texaans steakhuis. We kunnen vooral de hamburger met ‘Caesar salad’ en gratin van zoete aardappel warm aanbevelen (€ 16/SEK 169).

Indian Garden Heleneborgsgatan 15, tel. +46
(0)8 849498, indiangarden.se Geurige Indische gerechten op basis van biologisch vlees en lokale groenten. Proef de lam papaja balti met uien, look, paprika’s en papaja, opgediend in een kokend hete ijzeren kookpot (€ 15/SEK 169).

Ramblas 3 Långholmsgatan, tel. (0)8 669 2536 Eigentijds Spaans restaurant met een gezellige eetruimte. Ga voor de tapasborden en -porties. Of probeer de gebraden aardappelen met knoflookmayonaise (€ 3,50/SEK 39) en de gebakken mosselen met look (€ 4,50/SEK 48).

4 Knop Svartensgatan 4, tel. (0)8 640 7727 Smul in een met kaarsen verlichte kelder van heerlijke gebakjes en zoete pannenkoeken. Laat je verleiden door de Karl Alfred, gevuld met spinazie, roquefort en met dragon gekruid rundvlees (€ 10/SEK 105).

Tranan Karlbergsvägen 14, tel. (0)8 52 728100, tranan.se Eigentijdse Zweedse keuken in een minimale omgeving. Probeer de in boter gebakken haring (€ 14/SEK 145) of de wallenbergare – pasteitjes van kalfsgehakt en room (€ 18/ SEK195).

Pelikan Blekingegatan 40, tel. +46 (0)8 55 609090, pelikan.se Traditionele Zweedse keuken geserveerd in een verluchte ruimte met hoge plafonds. Probeer zeker de vleesballen met roomsaus, augurken en vossenbessen (€ 15/SEK 164).