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There’s no better time to visit Helsinki than in June, when round-the-clock daylight sees Finns throng the streets. James Kevin Mac Goris joins them
If St Petersburg was Peter the Great’s window on Europe, Helsinki could be considered the veranda extension his grandson tagged on to it. Founded originally by Gustav I of Sweden, the city owes its current skyline to Tsar Alexander I’s determination to extend his empire ever-westwards. And with a population of just over 550,000, Helsinki remains a modest capital built on a grand Russian scale.
And this is where Finns find themselves today – ‘forever stuck between east and west’; sandwiched between old allies Russia and even older colonialists Sweden; in Europe, but not. This unique position is encapsulated by the words of an Italian sommelier at a Helsinki restaurant, talking about an excellent Côtes du Rhone: “You have to try this – I bought up the entire production, so you probably won’t find it in Europe”.
Day one
10:00 After breakfast, head to the daily open-air market at Market Square (Kauppatori) on the waterfront in front of City Hall (Kaupungintalo). Here you’ll find row upon rows of stalls selling everything from fresh fish and vegetables to knick-knacks and jewellery in spectrolite, the Finnish national stone. Prices for market goods are reasonable, by Finnish standards, but make sure you haggle for souvenirs. Everyone takes credit cards, so you won’t get far with the “I only have €5” line.
11:30 A number of ferry excursions depart from Market Square, including Royal Line (www.royalline.fi), a three-hour or half-day excursion taking a tour of the islands and bays that make up Helsinki’s waterfront. Or you can take the hourly municipal ferry to the island of Suomenlinna.
12:15 Give yourself about two hours to wander around Suomenlinna, the former fortress island that today still has around 900 inhabitants. In summer, the various quays are full of visiting yachts, and the restaurants and bars on the island stay open till midnight. Head to the southern end of the island towards the King’s Gate (Kuninkaanportti), past Piper’s Park, whose restaurant, Café Piper (tel. (0)9 668447), was built in 1928. There are three restaurants on the island. Take lunch at Café Chapman (tel. (0)10 841 9195) near the visitors’ centre. Go for the salmon soup with roasted rye bread.
15:00 Back on dry land, head up Pohjoisesplanadi/Eteläesplanadi, which leads straight from the ferry drop-off at Market Square, stopping off at Kappeli Café (1 Eteläesplanadi), housed in a beautiful art deco building. The bar’s clientele sit and drink coffee, beer, vodka… whatever suits the mood.
16:00 Continue up the esplanade and turn left at the Swedish Theatre (Ruotsalainen Teatteri). Carry on another block and you’ll find yourself in Helsinki’s design district. Uudenmaankatu and adjacent streets are lined with boutiques, design stores, antique shops and contemporary art galleries, patronised by the square-spectacles brigade.
18:00 Wash off the city with a dip at the Yrjönkatu Swimming Hall (21 Yrjönkatu), the oldest pubic swimming pool in Finland. Check out the classic surroundings before checking into a traditional wood or steam sauna.
20:00 Cool down at Ateljee Bar (5 Kalevankatu) on the top floor of the nearby Sokos Hotel. High above the city rooftops, you can cradle an ice-cold strawberry margarita – a local favourite – and enjoy views that stretch all the way to Tallinn, Estonia, on a clear summer’s evening.
21:00 Wander down to the Lasipalatsi complex on the corner of Simonkatu and Mannerheimintie. A 1930s constructivist building, it has been home to restaurants and bars ever since it was built. The Lasipalatsi restaurant (22-24 Mannerheimintie, tel. (0)20 742 4290) on the first floor serves excellent Nordic food, including salmon, pike-perch and reindeer. Wash it down with a Finnish sparkling wine made of gooseberries and loganberries.
00:30 Located on the top floor of the city’s newest shopping mall complex, Lux (1 Urho Kekkosen Katu) is Helsinki’s hippest hangout. At half-past midnight, it’s just starting to get going.
Day two
10:00 After breakfast, take the no. 9 tram to Valtteri flea market (17 Aleksis Kiven Katu). Situated in the historic warehouses of the Vallila district, it’s Finland’s largest market and open every day. There’s the usual mix of second-hand clothes, bric-a-brac and classic vinyl, with an eastern touch. Don’t forget to fill up on some market food before you leave.
12:30 Take the no. 8 tram to Töölö on the western side of the main peninsula, favourite for walks with the city’s nature-loving inhabitants. Take the delightful waterfront trail, taking in the Sibelius monument in Sibelius Park (Sibeliuspuisto) with its strange fluted metal sculpture, and onwards to a path that leads you past the president’s and the prime minister’s beautiful, traditionally designed residences. From here, continue along the shoreline past 19th-century villas, and take the bridge over to Seurasaari island.
16:00 The no. 4 tram will bring you back to the city centre. Get off at Central Station (Helsingin Rautatieasema) and admire the famous statues flanking the main façade – just like Lenin did in 1917. Inside, the station is all go, with trains pulling out hourly to parts east: St Petersburg, Moscow and beyond.
17:00 Cross over the main shopping drag, Aleksanterinkatu, and drop into Kämp Galleria (29 Pohjoisesplanadi) for upscale shops. Try local heroes Tarsala Creation for shoes and the Moomin Shop for childlike Finnish weirdness.
19:30 Head up to the top of the esplanade and turn left on to Erottajankatu, where you’ll find Erottaja Bar (15-17 Erottajankatu), which pulls in a cool crowd made up of the city’s music, design and fashion elite.
20:30 Backtrack over to Arkadiankatu and Ateljé Finne (14 Arkadiankatu, tel. (0)9 493110), a deceptively relaxed local restaurant serving great Finnish specialities. Sommelier Daniele is on hand to guide you through the excellent and extensive wine list. You may need to make reservations, but it’s well worth it.
23:00 Finish at cocktail lounge A21 (21 Annankatu), a chilled out place where you have to ring on the doorbell to get in. Ask for a Finnish cocktail special.
Where to stay
The new Hotel Haven (17 Unioninkatu, tel. (0)9 681930, www.hotelhaven.fi, rooms from €200) is a stylish, boutiquey number, just beside Market Square on the docks.
Hotel Glo (4 Kluuvikatu, tel. (0)9 5840 9540, www.palacekamp.fi, rooms from €139) is next to Palace Kämp – Helsinki’s only five-star hotel – and is owned by the same group.
Cumulus Kaisaniemi
(7 Kaisaniemenkatu, tel. (0)9 172881, www.cumulus.fi, rooms from €79) is inexpensive and located right in the city centre.
FR 36 heures à Helsinki
Juin est le moment idéal pour visiter Helsinki. À l’époque où le soleil ne se couche jamais, les Finlandais envahissent les parcs de la ville, les terrasses et les bords de mer. James Kevin Mac Goris s’est joint à la foule
Jour 1 10:00 Après le petit-déjeuner, dirigez-vous vers la Place du Marché, où s’alignent échoppes sur échoppes, qui vendent de tout, depuis du poisson frais jusqu’au bric-à-brac pour touristes et aux bijoux.
11:30 De la Place du Marché, prenez le ferry jusqu’à Suomenlinna, la forteresse maritime construite sur les îles, et qui protégeait la capitale.
12:15 Planifiez environ deux heures pour faire le tour de Suomenlinna, ensuite prenez un lunch au Café Chapman, non loin du centre des visiteurs.
15:00 De retour sur la terre ferme, faites une halte au Kappeli Café (Pohjoisesplanadi/Eteläesplanadi), un magnifique bâtiment art déco.
16:00 Allez un bloc plus loin et vous vous retrouverez dans le Quartier design d’Helsinki, avec une kyrielle de boutiques, de magasins de design et de galeries d’art.
18:00 Purifiez-vous de votre tour de la ville et faites un plongeon au Bassin de Natation Yrjönkatu (21b Yrjönkatu), la plus ancienne piscine publique de Scandinavie.
20:00 Relaxez-vous au Bar Ateljee (5 Kalevankatu).
21:00 Promenez-vous jusqu’au complexe Lasipalatsi (22 Mannerheimintie). Dînez au premier étage du restaurant, où l’on sert une excellente cuisine nordique : saumon, sandre et renne.
00:30 Lux (1 Urho Kekkosen Katu) est l’endroit le plus trendy d’Helsinki. À minuit et demi, la nuit ne fait que commencer.
Jour 2 10:00 Après le petit-déjeuner, montez dans le tram N° 9 jusqu’au Marché aux Puces Valtteri à Aleksis Kiven Katu, où vous dénicherez un mélange éclectique d’objets et de vêtements de seconde main avec une touche d’Europe de l’Est.
12:30 Prenez le tram N° 8, direction Töölö et suivez la voie du bord de mer, qui vous emmènera au Monument Sibelius et aux résidences du Président et du Premier Ministre.
17:00 Arpentez les arcades Kämp Galleria (29 Pohjoisesplanadi) pour un shopping haut de gamme.
19:30 Le Bar Erottaja (15-17 Erottajankatu) attire une clientèle cool, issue de la scène de la musique, du design ainsi que l’élite de la mode.
20:30 Il n’en a peut-être pas l’air, mais le restaurant local Ateljé Finne (14 Arkadiankatu) est un lieu calme. On y sert de sublimes spécialités finlandaises.
23:00 Terminez par un cocktail au bar A21 (21 Annankatu).
NL 36 uren in Helsinki
Er is geen betere tijd om Helsinki te bezoeken dan in juni. Het is er 24 uur lang licht en de Finnen zoeken massaal stadsparken, terrasjes en de waterkant op. James Kevin Mac Goris gaat een dagje mee
Dag 1 10:00 Trek na het ontbijt naar het Marktplein waar honderden kraampjes in ellenlange rijen hun goederen aanprijzen. Je vindt er alles van verse vis tot souvenirs voor toeristen en juwelen.
11:30 Neem de ferry van het Marktplein naar Suomenlinna, het versterkte eiland dat de hoofdstad bewaakt.
12:15 Plan een tweetal uur om in Suomenlinna rond te wandelen en ga lunchen in Café Chapman, vlak bij het bezoekerscentrum.
15:00 Bezoek zeker Kappeli Café (Pohjoisesplanadi/Eteläesplanadi) zodra je weer het vasteland onder je voeten hebt, een prachtig gebouw in art-decostijl.
16:00 Ga nog een blok verder en je wandelt zo het Helsinki design district binnen, dik bezaaid met boetieks, designwinkels en kunstgaleries.
18:00 Was de stadsgeur van je af met een duik in de Yrjönkatu Swimming Hall (21b Yrjönkatu), het oudste openbaar zwembad van Scandinavië.
20:00 Cool down in de Ateljee Bar (5 Kalevankatu).
21:00 Slenter op je gemak naar het Lasipalatsi complex (22 Mannerheimintie). Geniet van een lekker diner in het restaurant op de eerste verdieping. Je kunt er kiezen uit een prima selectie Scandinavische lekkernijen; zalm, baars en rendier.
00:30 Lux (1 Urho Kekkosen katu) is de meest trendy uitgaansplek van Helsinki. Om half één ’s nachts komt het feest maar net op gang.
Dag 2 10:00 Stap na het ontbijt op Tram nr. 9 naar de Valtteri Vlooienmarkt aan Aleksis Kiven Katu voor een eclectische mengelmoes van tweedehandse spulletjes met een Oosterse toets.
12:30 Neem tram nr. 8 naar Tölöö en volg het wandelpad langs het Sibelius Monument en de stulpjes van de President en de Eerste Minister.
17:00 Ga naar de Kämp Galleria (29 Pohjoisesplanadi) voor chique boetieks.
19:30 De Erottaja Bar (15-17 Erottjankatu) trekt een cool publiek aan van de elite van de muziek-, designer- en kunstscene van de stad.
20:30 Ateljé Finne (14 Arkadiankatu) is een verrassend ontspannen plaatselijk restaurant dat smakelijke Finse specialiteiten serveert.
23:00 Sluit je citytrip af in de A21
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